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Picks & Pans March / February 2003

Wine of the Week reviews one or more wines each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores or that are suggested by the importer or distributor. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (3/31/03) is 1999 Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley ($11.00)

Deep dark ruby in color, with great legs, this Chilean Cabernet has currants and tar on the nose, with just a hint of spice. The nose is deep. On the palate, it's medium bodied and dry, with soft, supple tannins and adequate acidity for food. It delivers dry cherry and tobacco flavors followed by a good leathery finish. With some time in the glass, big black-cherry flavors emerge. A well priced, straightforward Cabernet that's wonderful with steak or roast meats. Imported by Excelsior Wine and Spirits, Old Brookville, NY. Website Link

If you have a moment, why not take this month's Survey, Wine Prices?

This week's wines (3/24/03) are N.V. Vallebelbo, Moscato D'Asti, DOCG ($7.99) and 1999 Vallebelbo, "Il Palio," Barbera d'Alba DOC ($10.99)

Pale straw in color, and slightly effervescent with small bubbles, this Moscato D'Asti has an attractive Muscat nose, with hints of bitter almond and cantaloupe. On the palate, it's light bodied but full of juicy, litchi flavors. There's just enough acidity for it to stand up to light brunch fare. The litchi finish is consistent with the wine's initial flavors. This bottle would be especially good with the Italian Easter dove-cake, colomba or served as an aperitif. A very good value. Imported by Italian Wine Growers, Manhasset, NY. Website Link

This traditional Barbera D'Alba has an opaque ruby color and loads of legs. The nose is predominantly cherry along with some burnt-sugar notes. Medium bodied, with all the acidity you might expect from a Barbera, it delivers tart, wild-cherry flavors, which linger, together with some spice. Nicely structured, with supple tannins, it has a good, black-pepper finish. A very pretty wine with a lot of character. Enjoy with red-sauced pastas or roast lamb. Imported by Italian Wine Growers, Manhasset, NY. Website Link

This week's wine (3/17/03) is 2001 Concha y Toro, "Marques de Casa Concha" Merlot, Peumo ($14.00)

This superbly elegant Chilean Merlot has a deep, opaque-ruby color and long, slow legs. The luscious nose is big and deep with aromas of black cherry and violet, complemented by underpinnings of tar and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full bodied and beautifully structured, with still firm, yet supple, tannins and good acidity for dining. It has a warm mouthfeel and delivers concentrated black-cherry flavors, which are followed initially by bittersweet chocolate, and then by spice. There's also a subtle hint of oak throughout. It has good length and finishes with spice and oak. Be sure to give this wine plenty of breathing time to enjoy it at its fullest. Excellent with grilled meats or, for the vegetarian, grilled Portobello mushrooms. An outstanding value. Website Link

Looking for a wine to go with Saint Patrick's Day Corned Beef and Cabbage or any boiled supper? Check out this month's Feature, Corned Beef, and Cabbage, and. . .Wine?

This week's wine (3/10/03) is 2002 Banfi, Le Rime, Toscana, IGT ($9.00)

Very pale straw in color, verging on clear, with just a hint of green, this blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Pinot Grigio (30%) has a big, forward, "clean" nose of lemon zest and fennel, with hints of apple. On the palate, it's light bodied and has a nice mouth feel with just a touch of unctuousness. Well structured, with good acidity for food, it offers tart lemon flavors followed by some apple-cider notes. It finishes nicely, with crisp apple flavors. A great everyday white that would be perfect with most white-fish dishes as well as with pasta salads. Website Link

This week's wine (2/24/03) is 2001 Georges Duboeuf, Syrah, Vin de Pays D'Oc ($8.95)

Deep, dark, opaque ruby in color, this French Syrah has gobs of legs and a big, forward nose of boysenberry, plum, and spice. On the palate, it's medium bodied, with jammy fruit flavors of blue plums complemented by lots of peppery spice. Nicely structured with supple tannins, it has a lingering finish with spice notes. Not at all complex. Perfect for roast chicken. Imported by W. J. Deutsch and Sons, Ltd. Website Link

This week's wine (2/17/03) is 2001 Georges Duboeuf, Macon Villages ($7.99)

This affordable white Burgundy, which for today's market is also labeled "Chardonnay," is light gold in color and has a forward nose of butterscotch and green apples. On the palate, it is medium bodied, with good acidity and a nice mouthfeel. It offers dry flavors of minerals and tart grapefruit and finishes nicely with a tartness underscored by apple notes. If you're looking for oak, look elsewhere. This wine would be perfect with a classic quiche or a seafood pasta. Imported by W. J. Deutsch and Sons, Ltd. Website Link

This week's wine (2/10/03) is 2000 Four Vines, Old Vine Cuvee Zinfandel, California ($11.99)

Deep garnet in color, with lush legs, this powerful Zinfandel has a complex nose of smoke, baking chocolate, and boysenberry aromas, with some hints of oak. Medium bodied, it's a bit hot on entry and shows some firm tannins. Initially, it delivers loads of chocolate and jammy black-fruit flavors, and then it explodes with spice. This is an old-style, classic zin and not overly polished. It finishes well, with spice and oak. Perfect with grilled sausages or hearty winter stews. Website Link

This week's wine (2/03/03) is 2001 Francis Coppola, Sofia Blanc de Blancs, California ($19.95)

Swathed in pink cellophane and sporting an attractive tracery label, this sparkling blend of Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat Canelli has a nice mousse and small, lively bubbles. The nose is alluring, with mango and pear aromas. On the palate, the wine is light bodied and has a lovely mouthfeel. It delivers off-dry flavors of pear, followed by distinctive citrus-zest notes. The finish is crisp and tart. This is a luscious sparkler that would be perfect served as an aperitif or with dessert. You might also want to offer it for brunch. Website Link

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