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Picks & Pans September/August 2001

Wine of the Week reviews one or more wines each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores or that are suggested by the importer or distributor. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (9/24/01) is 1999 Buena Vista, Carneros Pinot Noir, Carneros ($16.99)

Purple red in color, this wine shows loads of long legs. The nose is huge and alluring, with burnt sugar, raspberry, and cherry. Light to medium bodied, the wine has a lovely mouthfeel. On the palate, it offers lingering flavors of cherry and strawberry, followed by cocoa notes. This wine is well structured, with supple tannins and fruit in near perfect balance and enough acidity to stand up to food. The finish is long and has vanilla nuances. An outstanding example of a California Pinot Noir from Carneros. I'd pair this wine with simply prepared salmon.

This week's wine (9/17/01) is 1999 Santa Julia, Chardonnay Reserva, Mendoza ($10.00)

This Argentinean Chardonnay is gold in color with a bold nose of butterscotch, vanilla, and some oak. Medium bodied, it delivers buttery and pear flavors with hints of vanilla. There's plenty of crisp acidity to stand up to most fare. The wine has a good finish as well. In short, an elegant Chardonnay at a great price. I'd pair this wine with shrimp sautéed in wine and butter. Imported by Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL.

This week's wine (9/10/01) is 1997 Solabal, Rioja, Crianza 1997 ($13.99)

Opaque, deep ruby in color, with beautiful legs, this Spanish Rioja has a big, forward nose of cherry and clove, with some licorice underpinnings. Smooth and bone dry on entry, this medium bodied wine is packed with delicious flavors of plum, prune, and some cherry. The flavors linger. This wine presents a fine example of wood ageing that envelops the fruit without overpowering it. The finish is dry, with hints of spice and just a touch of cherry. A voluptuous wine. I'd pair it with roasted Cornish game hens or with Manchego cheese and crusty bread. Imported by Tempranillo, Inc., Mamaroneck, NY.

This week's wine (9/03/01) is 2000 Concha y Toro, "Casillero del Diablo" Merlot, Rapel Valley, Chile ($10.00)

Very deep ruby, almost purple, in color with good legs, this Merlot has an intriguing, deep, black-cherry nose, with some hints of cedar. On the palate, it's medium to full bodied and delivers plenty of sweet Bing-cherry flavors with hints of licorice or anise. The flavors linger. The wine is well structured, with good acidity for food and it has a silky mouthfeel. The finish is long and repeats the initial cherry and spice flavors. This is wonderful Merlot and an outstanding value. "Delicious," commented one taster. We served it with a top round braised slowly in red Spanish onions and olive oil.

This week's wines (8/27/01) are 2000 Principessa Gavia, Gavi "Perlante," DOCG ($18.00) and
2000 Banfi, "Rosa Regale," Brachetto D'Acqui, DOCG ($23.00)

Pale straw in color, this effervescent version of the classic Piedmontese Gavi, a dry white, is loaded with tiny bubbles and has an attractive, straightforward nose of peach. On the palate, it delivers off-dry, or semi-sweet, flavors of peach and nectarine. This is a light, refreshing sparkling wine with good acidity and should make a wonderful aperitif to serve with hors d'oeuvres. If you expect a Champagne type of wine, you'll be disappointed. But if you accept this wine on its own terms, you may be pleasantly surprised. Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY.

This sparkling red wine has a festive cranberry color and a full mousse that looks like raspberry sherbet. It has a pretty and perfumy raspberry-cherry nose. Delightfully fruity on the palate, it offers lingering black cherry flavors. It's well structured with good acidity and relatively low in alcohol (7%). I would serve this on its own at the end of dinner or maybe with a rich chocolate cake. Although this wine is a little above our price point of $20, I thought its unique playful character deserved our attention. The perfect wine for Valentine's Day. Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY.

This week's wine (8/20/01) is 2000 Concha y Toro, "Casillero del Diablo" Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile ($10.00)

Deep, dark ruby in color, this wine has long legs and a big nose of cedar, tar, and black cherry. On the palate, it delivers an interesting counterpoint of jammy plum and spicy black-pepper flavors with an underpinning of sweet black cherry. This wine is well structured, with soft tannins well balanced with with the fruit. It also has a nice silky mouthfeel and a good dry finish. Enjoy this wine with a slab of prime rib or with a plate of grilled Portobello mushrooms. Imported by Excelsior Wine & Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

This week's wine (8/13/01) is 2000 The Fifteen, Grenache, Vin de Pays des Pyrenees Orientales ($15.00)

This wine from the Languedoc-Roussillon is deep ruby in color and has great legs. The nose is distinctively black cherry, with tobacco and burnt-sugar notes. Medium bodied, it delivers delicate black-cherry flavors that linger. White pepper seems to burst through at the back of the throat and then lasts through the long finish. The wine is well structured with soft tannins and good acidity for food. Enjoy this wine at your Labor Day cookout or with a grilled loin of pork. Imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA.

This week's wine (8/06/01) is 2000 Concha y Toro, "Casillero del Diablo" Sauvignon Blanc, Valle Central, Chile ($10.00)

Pale gold in color, this is an aggressive Sauvignon Blanc. It has a rich herbaceous nose, with gooseberry and tropical fruit notes. Light to medium bodied, it's crisp and citrusy on the palate, with tangy citrus flavors that linger on the tongue. Packed with plenty of acidity, it has a good mouthfeel and a nice tangy, grapefruit citrus finish. I'd pair this wine with shellfish or with a plate of grilled vegetables on a hot summer evening. Imported by Excelsior Wine & Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

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