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Picks & Pans for May/April 2001

Wine of the Week reviews one or more wines each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores or that are suggested by the importer or distributor. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wines (5/28/01) are 1999 Antonin Rodet, Bourgogne, Chardonnay AC ($10.99) and 1999 Antonin Rodet, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir ($10.99)

Pale yellow in color, this wine has an attractive, clean nose of green apples, lemon citrus, and subtle oak. Light bodied, dry, and somewhat unctuous on the palate, it delivers butterscotch and apple flavors. It has a pleasant tart finish, with hints of apple mash. Well structured with good acidity for food, this is a simple, unaffected wine. A perfect introduction to white Burgundy at a very good price. This wine would go wonderfully with poached salmon. Imported by W. J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., Harrison, NY.

Bright ruby with good legs, this red Burgundy has an appealing wild-cherry and plum nose with some floral notes as well. Light to medium bodied, it's dry and well structured, with soft tannins and fruit nicely balanced. It also has adequate acidity to stand up to food. On the palate, it begins with plum flavors and finishes with wild cherry. This is a textbook red Burgundy, and more subtle and restrained than the typical California Pinot Noir. I would recommend pairing it with grilled meats. Imported by W. J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., Harrison, NY. 

Be sure to check out our latest Feature, which takes a close look at true Chablis.

This week's wine (5/21/01) are 2000 Gini, Soave Classico "Superiore" DOC ($14.99) and 2000 Fontaleoni, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG ($11.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a huge, attractive nose of almonds and pears. Medium bodied and dry, it's packed with flavors of pear, almond, and citrus that linger on the palate. There's also a teasing tartness to the wine that seems to keeps the tongue alert. The wine is nicely structured, with good acidity to stand up to food. It also has a nice finish with some honey notes. Even if you've been turned off by bland, vapid Soaves in the past, give this one a try and you'll discover what real Soave is all about. Pair this wine with a seafood pasta or a roast chicken. A Marc de Grazia Selection. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

Pale straw in color with a pretty nose of fennel and nuts, this wine delivers loads of assertive fennel and tart peach flavors. The flavors linger with a pleasant tart quality all the way to a good, dry finish. There's plenty of good acidity making it perfect for the table. I would serve this wine with broiled scallops or an insalata di frutta di mare (seafood salad). From Marc de Grazia. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

This week's wine (5/14/01) is 1999 Chateau de Fonscolombe, "Cuvee Speciale" Coteaux D'Aix en Provence ($9.99)

This blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Carignan is deep garnet in color bordering on purple and has good legs. On the nose it's quite forward, with aromas of cassis and wild cherry and hints of anise. Medium bodied, it has a silky texture and delivers flavors of cherry and fresh black pepper. Well structured with soft tannins, it has a pleasant finish with tart, blue-plum like flavors. This wine would go well with grilled pork chops. Imported by Regal Wine Imports Inc., Marlton, NJ.

This week's wine (5/7/01) is 2000 Santa Julia Vineyards, Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza ($6.99)

This blend of Malbec (60%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) from Argentina is ruby in color and has long legs. The nose is straightforward and predominantly black cherry, with some cedar notes. On the palate, it's quite dry and delivers flavors of cherry and spice accompanied by some hints of chocolate. It also has an interesting finish, with initial black pepper flavors that gradually yield to plum. The wine is well structured, with fruit and tannin balanced nicely. This is definitely a red-meat wine that will show well with steak or braised short ribs. The price makes it a real value. Imported by Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL.

This week's wines (4/30/01) are 1999 Mas Carlot, Marsanne, "Cuvee Tradition", Vin de Pays Doc ($9.99) and 1999 Hope Estate, Merlot, Hunter Valley ($12.99)

Straw in color, this Marsanne from the Languedoc has an inviting nose of minerals and lemon zest. On the palate, it's dry and delivers lingering grapefruit flavors with honey notes. It has a pleasant, unctuous mouthfeel and a good finish with hints of spice. This wine would be perfect with a seafood salad or grilled fish. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.

Deep ruby in color, with good legs, this Australian Merlot has a beautiful, forward nose of earth and bing cherries. Medium to full bodied and well structured, it's dry and offers plum-like flavors encased in soft tannins with some oak notes. It finishes rather abruptly with a hint of sweetness. If you're looking for a reasonably priced Merlot with some real character, this may well be it. Enjoy this wine with grilled pork loin or fillet mignon. Imported by Winesellers, Inc. Skokie, IL.

This week's wine (4/23/01) is 2000 Concha y Toro, Xplorador Merlot, Rapel Valley, Chile ($10.99)

Deep purple in color, this wine has good legs and an attractive, earthy nose with plum notes that appears somewhat mature for its age. On the palate, it's extremely dry and medium bodied, and it delivers lingering plum and black-cherry flavors enveloped in soft tannins. The finish is good, with hints of bitter almond. This is a heartier Merlot than most and should appeal to fans of this varietal that prefer a dry style. I would recommend pairing this wine with beef dishes. Imported by Excelsior Wine and Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

This week's wine (4/16/01) is 2000 Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais-Villages ($7.99)

This wine has a beautiful garnet to purple color and long legs. The nose is huge with sweet jammy fruit like strawberry. Medium bodied, it delivers tart fruit flavors that linger. It has an adequate finish with some earth notes. This is a classic Beaujolais-Villages from a great vintage. Enjoy it with your first spring barbecue or with a plate of grilled sausages. Imported by W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., Harrison, NY.

This week's wines (4/9/01) are 1998 Pieve del Vescovo, Piovano, Rosso, Umbria, IGT ($10.00) and 1998 Pieve del Vescovo, Lucciaio, Rosso, Umbria, IGT ($19.99)

Deep ruby in color with good legs, this wine has a nose of tart plum and tar, with hints of cedar. On entry, it's dry and tannic with soft tannins. Medium bodied, it delivers rich flavors of wild cherry and smoke. There's a counterpoint in the taste between a rustic sweetness and an appealing bitterness. The flavors linger on the tongue, and the wine has a nice dry finish with hints of tar. This is a great pasta or pizza red. Imported by Wines We Are, Brooklyn, NY.

Deep ruby in color with incredible legs, this wine has a complex nose of earth, plums, black cherry, and a little chalk that leaps from the glass with a subtle sweetness. There's some raisiny notes as well. Medium bodied with mild tannins, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese delivers flavors of chocolate and plums, along with some hints of black licorice. The flavors linger, yet they don't overwhelm the palate. It's well structured with good acidity. It also has a nice finish with black currant notes. Although quite elegant, there's an underlying rusticity to this wine. It would be perfect with grilled lamb chops or a plate of grilled sausages. Imported by Wines We Are, Brooklyn, NY.

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This week's wine (4/2/01) is 2000 Concha y Toro, Xplorador Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($10.00)

Light gold in color, this wine has an inviting, complex nose that ranges from peach and pear to herbaceous and mineral, along with a hint of cream. On entry, it's lush with just a hint of tartness. Medium to full bodied, the wine has an unctuous mouthfeel and delivers dry flavors of oak, tart peach, and lemon citrus. Nicely structured with good acidity, its flavors linger and it finishes with notes of peach and spice. This wine should go extremely well with broiled bay scallops or roast chicken. Or even serve it as an aperitif. Imported by Excelsior Wine and Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

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