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Picks & Pans for March/February 2001

Wine of the Week reviews one or more wines each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores or that are suggested by the distributor. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wines (3/29/01) are 1998 Michael Sullberg, Chardonnay "Barrel Select", California ($11.99) and 1999 Michael Sullberg, Merlot "Reserve", California ($11.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has an inviting nose of apricot and pears. On the palate, it's full bodied and it delivers buttery flavors with notes of vanilla and pears. Well structured with good acidity and a judicious use of oak, its flavors linger and it finishes with some hints of peach. With its plentiful fruit flavors, this is definitely a California-style Chardonnay, but unlike many others, the grape takes precedence over the oak. This wine would be great with a rich creamy seafood dish like lobster thermidor or even on its own.

Deep ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a huge nose of black cherry and plum that seems to leap from the glass. Dry and full bodied, it's forward on the tongue and delivers plenty of lasting flavors, characterized by black cherry and blue plums. Well structured, its soft tannins and fruit are nicely balanced. It has a good finish with plum notes. Still relatively young, this wine will be even better with some age. Oftentimes, I find Merlots hollow and vegetal, but this one is extremely attractive with a lot of character. It would be wonderful with grilled tuna or a fillet mignon.

This week's wine (3/19/01) is 1999 Concha y Toro, "Casillero del Diablo" Chardonnay, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($10.00)

Pale gold in color, with an intriguing nose of butterscotch and cream, this wine is crisp and dry on the palate. It delivers buttery oak and lime-citrus flavors that linger on the tongue. Medium-to-full bodied, it's well structured with good acidity and has a nice citrus finish. Oak is used judiciously, and the style is attractively austere. This wine would be wonderful with broiled scallops or almost any seafood dish. Imported by Excelsior Wine and Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

This week's wine (3/12/01) is 1999 Cline, Zinfandel, California ($9.99)

Ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a huge nose of sweet plums and jammy fruit with undercurrents of black pepper. It's full bodied and rich, and the fruit turns to spice on the palate as the wine coats the tongue. Dry and well structured with soft tannins, it has a long spicy finish. Enjoy this wine with a grilled steak. A real value in Zinfandel these days.

This week's wine (3/5/01) is 2000 Paul & Jean Marc Pastou, Sancerre, "Les Boucaults" Vieilles Vignes ($14.99)

Pale straw, almost clear in color, this wine has a classic Sauvignon Blanc nose of gooseberries with some herbaceous notes. On entry, it's a bit crisp, and then the wine coats the tongue with mineral flavors that give way to tart peaches. The flavors linger, and the wine has a good finish. It's well structured with good acidity and should stand up well to food. This wine would be perfect with broiled trout or Dover sole. Luscious. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

This week's wine (2/26/01) is 2000 Santa Julia Vineyards, Chardonnay, Mendoza ($6.99)

This Argentinean Chardonnay is pale straw in color and has a straightforward nose of under-ripe pineapple and straw, with butterscotch notes. It also has an attractive, unctuous mouthfeel and coats the tongue with plenty of lemon zest flavors and hints of vanilla and minerals. This wine is nicely structured with adequate acidity to stand up to food and has a good finish with crisp apple notes. Outstanding with grilled tuna. At under $7, it's also an exceptional value. Imported by Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL.

Be sure to check out this month's feature, The Ol' Comeback Kid, that focuses on the Languedoc-Roussillon and includes tasting notes on fourteen wines from this and surrounding regions.

This week's wines (2/19/01) are 1998 Valle dell' Asso, Primitivo "Vigna S. Giovanni," Salento IGT ($9.00) and 1997 Valle dell' Asso, Copertino, Rosso, DOC ($9.00)

Ruby in color with good long legs, this Primitivo is distinctively pretty in the glass. It has a big nose of barnyard and tar, followed by jammy blackberry notes. On the palate, it's dry and chunky, with flavors of blue plums under a load of soft tannins. The flavors linger on the tongue. The wine has a good tarry finish and a pleasantly sweet aftertaste reminiscent of stewed fruit. Give this wine some time to breathe before serving. This is the kind of wine that seems to encourage good conversation around the dinner table. Perfect with a plate of spaghetti and meatballs. From Marc De Grazia; Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines Inc., Syosset, NY.

This Copertino has a deep garnet color and plenty of long legs. The nose is delicate, with aromas of vanilla and sesame seed and hints of toast. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, dry, somewhat tannic, and has Copertino's characteristic heat. The wine has a monochromatic raisiny flavor that coats the tongue and lasts, as well as a short, warm finish. After being opened for a while, it acquires a bit of elegance. This wine would be wonderful with a plate of grilled meats, and vegetarians might find it a good match for grilled vegetables, like mushrooms and eggplant. From Marc De Grazia; Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines Inc., Syosset, NY.

This week's wine (2/12/01) is 1999 Hatziyiannis, Santorini "Spyros Hatziyiannis" ($12.00)

Straw in color, this Greek white has an attractive evolving nose that starts off as cream and pineapples and changes to herbaceous. Medium bodied and quite dry, the wine coats the palate with mineral flavors complemented by lemon citrus. There's also plenty of good acidity to stand up to food, and the crisp flavors last. It has a nice finish with citrus notes. This wine would be great with seafood or grilled fish. Vegetarians would enjoy it with a classic Greek salad. Imported by Fantis Imports, Inc., NY.

This week's wine (2/05/01) is 1999 Concha y Toro, Casillero del Diablo, Sauvignon Blanc, Valle Central (Chile) ($10.00)

Straw in color, this Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has a beautiful, bright lemon-citrus nose, with underpinnings of cream, grass, and vanilla. On the palate, it's big and forward. Dry, and well structured with good acidity, this wine is packed with flavors of lemon zest and butterscotch, followed by spice, that linger on the tongue. It also has a great mouth feel and a fine finish with spice notes. Vegetarians should find this wine perfect for many of their menus. It stood up well to a vegetarian pasta laced with goat cheese and perfectly complemented a plate of grilled Mahi-Mahi served over garlicky broccoli rabe. This wine is an extraordinary value from a label that has, in the past, been underwhelming. Imported by Excelsior Wine & Spirits, Old Brookville, NY.

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