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Picks & Pans January 2001/December 2000
Wine of the Week reviews
one or more wines each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write
in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note:
The wine prices in our reviews are the prices we pay (before any discount)
at our local wine stores or that are suggested by the distributor. They
are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.
This week's wine (1/29/01) is 1997 Castell
del Remei, Gotim Bru, Costers del Segre ($12.99)
Deep
dark ruby in color with long thick legs, this blend of Tempranillo, Merlot,
and Cabernet Sauvignon has a big nose of ripe bing cherries and black
currants, accompanied by some smoke notes. Medium bodied with luscious
berry flavors and hints of spice and pencil shavings, its flavors linger
on the palate. Well structured, this wine has a good finish as well. Enjoy
it with a grilled steak. Imported by European Cellars Direct, New York,
NY 10001.
We just posted this month's feature:
Recessionary Reds. It reviews eleven value priced ($4.99 to $10) wines
that are perfect for everyday fare like meat loaf.
We also have a new Valentine's Day TableWine Challenge.
It asks you to find the perfect wine for a romantic recipe from our celebrity
chef. Enter, and you could win some great prizes. Details are on our Challenge
page.
This week's wine (1/22/01) is 1999 Chateau
Valcombe, Cotes du Ventoux "Les Griottes" ($12.99)
Deep
purple in color with a multitude of legs, this Rhone blend of Syrah (50%)
and Grenache Noir (50%) exhibits a multitude of legs and has an inviting
nose of bing cherry and cedar, with hints of ash and slate. The nose seems
to waft from the glass. Dry and still quite tannic, it has soft tannins
that envelop jammy fruit flavors, with blue-plum, blackberry, and some
vanilla characteristics. After a little time, deep cherry flavors develop
on the the tongue. These flavors linger, and the wine has a good mid-palate.
It's a well structured wine, with tannins, alcohol, and fruit in good
balance. The finish is just right, with a hint of sweetness. Enjoy this
wine with any hearty winter stew, but be sure to give it some time to
breathe before serving. Imported by Jeffrey M. Davies “Signature Selections,”
South Kearney, NJ.
This week's wines (1/15/01) comprise a pair of Italian
whites: 1999 Placido, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, IGT ($8.00)
and 1999 Principessa Gavia, Gavi, DOCG ($12.00)
Very
pale straw in color, this Pinot Grigio has a big nose of lemon citrus
and grass, together with some mineral notes. On the palate, it's crisp
and dry and has a nice mouthfeel. Well balanced, with good acidity, it
delivers mineral and lemon zest flavors that linger. It also has a nice,
clean finish with some hints of vanilla. This wine perfectly complemented
a pasta served with grilled chicken, sun dried tomato, and arugula, in
a lemon and white-wine garlic sauce and goat cheese. Imported by BV Imports,
Old Brookville, NY.
This
Gavi is straw to pale yellow in color. It has an inviting floral nose
of wildflowers, with a hint of nut oil. Medium bodied, this wine has a
good balance of acidity and fruit. Its flavors are primarily grapefruit
and green apple, with some chalk notes. It has a nice finish, with a touch
of white-pepper. Enjoy this wine with a plate of scampi alla Veneziana.
Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY.
This week's wine (1/8/01) is 1998 Michel Lynch,
Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux ($8.99)
Pale
gold in color, this white Bordeaux has a big, forward nose of gooseberry
complemented by herbaceous, vanilla, and floral notes. On the palate,
it delivers crisp mineral flavors. It is well structured with good acidity
for food. The flavors linger, and the finish is good with some grassy
notes. Not at all complex, this is a traditional white Bordeaux at a great
price. Enjoy with simple fish dishes or as an aperitif.
This week's wines (1/1/01) are 1998 Donnafugata,
Sedàra, Sicilia, I.G.T. ($19.00) and 1999 Mas Des Aveylans,
Syrah Vin de Pays du Gard ($9.99)
Made
from the Nero d'Avola grape, this Sicilian red is light ruby in color
with long, beautiful legs. It sports a big nose of brambles, black cherry,
and plum. On the palate, the wine is very dry and well structured, with
soft tannins and plenty of good acidity. It delivers black fruit flavors,
like black cherry and plum and has a nice acidic finish. This wine was
wonderful with an eggplant Parmigiana. The bitterness of the eggplant
accentuated the subtle sweetness of the wine. Imported by Parliament Import
Company, Atlantic City, NJ.
Deep
purple in color with long, slow legs, this Rhone red has an alluring nose
packed with loads of jammy, blueberry fruit complemented by black-pepper
and pencil-shaving notes. On the palate, it's big, full bodied, and dry,
with firm tannins. Its blueberry and cherry flavors, however, appear,
at least for now, to be overpowered by the tannins. (It needs some time
to breathe.) The wine has good acidity and a pleasant finish with hints
of caramel. Enjoy this well priced red with spicy grilled sausage. Imported
by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.
This week's wine (12/25/00) is 1997 Trefethen, Cabernet
Franc, Estate Grown, Napa Valley ($18.99)
Deep
ruby in color and beginning to show some age with a little glycerin around
the edge, this Chinon-style Cabernet Franc has an elegant, complex nose
of crushed black pepper, jammy black cherry, with hints of chalk. On the
palate, it's quite dry with soft tannins, and delivers delicate cherry
flavors, followed by lingering spice notes. Its spicy finish, however,
is a tad short. It's reserved, and not at all showy, in style. In other
words, it seems to have been made to play a supporting role to food. This
wine would be perfect with a veal stew.
This week's wine (12/18/00) is 2000 Santa Julia
Vineyards, Torrontes, Mendoza ($7.00)
Pale
straw, almost clear, in color, this Argentinean white has a huge, almost
seductive, nose of mangoes and other tropical fruit. On the palate, it
delivers loads of flavor, with apple, honey, and Muscat characteristics
accompanied by some spice notes. These flavors linger. This medium-bodied
wine is well structured, with good acidity, and it also has a nice finish,
with hints of spice and tart apples. It would go well with a seafood pasta,
like linguine with white clam sauce, spicy Asian fare, or can even serve
as an aperitif. A real value with plenty of character. Imported by Wine-Sellers,
Ltd., Stokie, IL.
This week's wines (12/11/00) are 1999 Francis
Coppola, Diamond Series, Gold Label Chardonnay ($15.00) and 1998
Francis Coppola, Diamond Series, Red Label Zinfandel
($14.00)
Pale
straw in color, this wine has a clean, enticing nose of butterscotch with
lemon citrus notes. On the palate, it's full bodied and unctuous, with
lemon citrus flavors followed by lingering butterscotch. It has a good
finish with some spice notes. This wine is well structured, has good acidity,
and oak is judiciously used. Perfect for dishes like halibut in a white
cream sauce or a simply roasted Cornish game hen.
Deep
ruby in color with beautiful legs, this zinfandel has a classic nose of
black pepper and ripe jammy plums, complemented by some cedar notes. It's
dry, firm, and full bodied, with soft tannins that envelop plenty of black
fruit flavors, but pepper and spice flavors predominate with just hints
of sweetness. Black pepper follows through on the finish. This wine would
go well with a spicy pasta arrabbiata or grilled sausages.
Our latest addition to the site is a listing of BYOB
restaurants contributed by readers to our Forum. If you know of a good
restaurant in your area that's BYOB, please share it with us. Here's a
direct link to the TableWine
Forum.
This week's wine (12/04/99) is 1999 Fefiñanes,
Albariño de Fefiñanes, Rias Baixas ($12.99)
Pale
straw in color with greenish tints, this Spanish white has a huge nose
of green apples, butter, and lemon citrus together with some fennel notes.
On entry, it's crisp with some petillance and then appears somewhat unctuous.
It delivers plenty of flavor characterized chiefly by green apples and
lemon citrus. The flavors linger. The wine has a nice dry finish with
hints of spice and under-ripe honeydew. This wine is well structured
with adequate acidity to stand up to food. Serve with a garlicky seafood
pasta or any Mediterranean dish that calls for a white wine. (I've seen
this wine on sale for a little as $7.99.) Imported by USA Wine Import,
New York, NY.
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