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Picks & Pans November/October 2000

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (11/27/00) is 1998 Francesco Boschis, Dolcetto di Dogliani, " Vigna Sori San Martino" DOC ($15.99)

Deep deep ruby in color with long long legs, this wine has a big nose, heavy with prosciutto and jammy blackberry aromas. The wine is quite dry on the palate with plenty of body and good acidity. It delivers blue plum and bitter almond flavors enveloped by mild tannins. The flavors linger and the finish is dry with earth and spice notes. This Dolcetto is made more in the austere, dry style, as opposed to the lighter more ebullient one, and it should definitely appeal to hearty red drinkers. A pasta sauced with ragú Bolognese or an herbed crusted veal roast would go quite well with this wine. Imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

This week's wine (11/20/00) is 1999 Chateau Bonnet, Entre-Deux-Mers ($8.99)

Pale straw in color, this white Bordeaux has a lovely nose of melons and apples, with some sweet notes. Crisp on entry, it delivers plenty of lemon citrus, pear, and mineral flavors that linger. On the palate, it's medium bodied and well structured with enough acidity to stand up well to food. It has an adequate finish with mineral notes. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (45%), Semillon (45%), and Muscadelle (10%). At this price, the wine represents a real bargain that should go well with simply prepared fish and poultry. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, NY.

This week's wine (11/13/00) is 1999 Martin Schaetzel, Tokay-Pinot Gris, Cuvée Réserve Vin d’Alsace ($17.99)

This wine from Alsace on the eastern border of France is an exquisite example of this varietal. Pale, pale straw in color, this wine has a big nose of vanilla, with lemon and almond notes, and just a hint of herbs. On the palate, it’s fleshy and crisp. Full bodied and unctuous, it delivers loads of mildly sweet honey flavors with a touch of almond. These flavors seem to linger and the finish is long with spice notes. This is not a wimpy white and will definitely draw out the flavors in most foods. This would go well with a pork roast or spicy Asian fare.

This week's wine (11/06/00) is 1997 Colombini, Morellino di Scansano, DOC ($19.00)

Deep ruby in color, this Tuscan Morellino (a synonym for Sangiovese) has beautiful legs. An initial raspberry nose gives way to earth and cedar. On the palate, it's very dry and medium bodied. It delivers subtle beefy flavors with some cedar notes. A little short on the finish. Nicely structured with good acidity, this wine would be perfect with a Tuscan broiled steak. Imported by Parliament Import Company, Atlantic City, NJ.

This week's wine (10/30/00) is 1999 Oxford Landing, Viognier, Yalumba Limited Release, South Australia ($11.99)

Lemon yellow in color, this wine has a big clean nose of vanilla and lemon followed by Anjou pear. It's crisp on entry, and delivers plenty of tart green-apple and pear flavors. This wine is well structured with good acidity. It has a nice finish with lemon zest notes. This wine would be perfect with fillet of sole or a baked ham. It would make a fine aperitif served with thin slices of prosciutto. Imported by Negociants U.S.A. Inc., Napa, CA.

This week's wine (10/23/00) is 1999 Falesco, Vitiano, Umbria IGT ($9.99)

Deep ruby in color with very long legs, this wine has a big nose of licorice and black berries. Medium bodied and dry, it delivers concentrated black fruit flavors like plum and cherry wrapped in soft tannins. The flavors linger on the palate, and the finish is good with hints of spice. This is a nicely structured wine with adequate acidity to stand up well to most foods. It's also a great value. Enjoy this wine with roasted pork loin or steak pizzaiola.  Imported by Winebow Inc., New York, NY.

This week's wine (10/16/00) is 1999 Carpineto, Dogajolo, Tuscany ($9.99)

Opaque purple in color, this dry red table wine from Tuscany has good legs and a big berry nose with hints of spice. Medium bodied and uncomplicated, it delivers red cherry flavors with a touch of spice on the finish. A good wine for gulping with spaghetti or pizza. Imported by Opici Import Company, Glen Rock, NJ.

This week's wine (10/9/00) is 1998 Cline, Syrah, California ($10.99)

Deep red plum in color, this straightforward Syrah has an earth and mushroom nose with leather notes. It's silky smooth on the palate. Dry and full bodied, it delivers tart blue-plum and raisin flavors wrapped in soft tannins. The flavors linger on the palate, and the finish has just a touch of spice. I'd recommend this dish with beef short ribs braised with lentils or with a plate of grilled sausages. This is a wine worth looking for.

This week's wine (10/2/00) is 1997 Black Creek, Shiraz, South Eastern Australia ($8.99)

Deep ruby in color with great legs, this wine has a lovely full nose of currants and black fruit with hints of vanilla. On the palate it's rich and jammy and packed with spice, black pepper, and currant flavors accompanied by a subtle sweetness. It also has a good finish with plenty of spice. This wine would go well with roast lamb or a beef stew on a cool autumn evening. It's imported by R.S. Danis Imports, Manhasset, NY.

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