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Picks & Pans July/June 2000

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (7/31/00) is 1998 Paul Bourgeon, Macon Villages ($8.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has a big nose of herbs, peach, and grass. Buttery smooth and dry, it delivers peach, melon, and lemon citrus flavors along with good acidity. It's just a tad short on the finish. It would make a fine aperitif wine or would go well at the table with sautéed chicken cutlets or grilled tuna. A very good value. Imported by Fedway Imports, Kearny, NJ.

This week's wine (7/24/00) is 1999 Chateau Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes, "G.S." La Civette, ($7.99)

Crimson in color with good long legs, this blend of Syrah and Grenache from the Rhone valley has an earthy mushroom nose. Smooth on entry, it imparts a warmth on the palate and delivers spicy and tart blue-plum flavors that linger on the tongue. It has an elegant finish with white pepper notes. It would go well with most bistro fare like braised lamb shanks or would make a nice accompaniment to a cheese board. An excellent value. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.

This week's wine (7/17/00) is 1999 Due Torri, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, IGT (1.5Lt. $7.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a big nose of lemon citrus and peach. It's crisp and tart on entry. Light to medium bodied, it's dry and has a smooth texture. It delivers good flavors characterized by minerals and citrus. It also has a nice tart finish. This is an easy-drinking, quaffable wine and a great value. It would go well with simple veal dishes or pastas with light cream sauces.

For more on Pinot Grigio, see this month's feature, The Three Faces of Pinot Grigio. It includes background on this varietal and tasting notes on ten wines.

This week's wine (7/10/00) is 1998 St. Clement, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($13.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has an enticing floral nose with caramel notes. Full bodied and dry, it delivers plenty of flavor that ranges from citrus to melon to pear. It's nicely structured with adequate acidity and a good finish with subtle oak. This wine would be great with spicy Asian fare.

This week's wine (7/03/00) is 1999 Cavit, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie IGT ($8.99)

This wine is pale straw in color with a vibrant citrus and apricot nose. On the palate, it's crisp with good acidity and delivers plenty of lemon flavor with green- grape notes. It has a good mouth feel and a nice finish. This wine would be wonderful with a seafood risotto or linguine and white clam sauce. The wine is quite well distributed. and I would opt for it over better known, more expensive names--especially on restaurant wine lists. A definite value.

This week's wine (6/26/00) is 1999 Bogle Vineyards, Chardonnay, California ($9.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a crisp nose of green apples and subdued oak. Beautifully buttery on the palate, it's packed with butterscotch and pineapple flavors. It has a good mid-palate and a nice lemony acidity that should let it stand up well to food. It also has a good finish. Should go well with grilled fish or chicken. At this price, it's a definite buy.

This week's wine (6/19/00) is 1999 Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages ($9.99)

Light ruby in color with good legs, this wine has a cherry nose with some hints of spice. On the plate, it's relatively dry and, given its youth, still quite tannic. Medium bodied, its flavors of tart cherry and spice appear somewhat thin and diluted. The finish is spicy but short.

This week's wine (6/12/00) is 1998 St. Francis, Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($10.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a pear and butterscotch nose. On the palate, it's distinctively dry, crisp delivering mineral flavors with subdued oak notes. It has good acidity and a nice finish. This wine is more Burgundian than Californian in style; more subtle in flavor. Would be wonderful with simply prepared sole or trout.

This week's wine (6/5/00) is 1997 Taurino, Salice Salentino, Rosso, Riserva ($9.99)

Ruby in color with great legs, this wine has a big wild-cherry nose that leaps from the glass. On the palate, it's dry and medium bodied with wild-cherry flavors surrounded by mild tannins. The finish is quite dry with a hint of sweetness. This has always been one of my favorite Italian bargain reds and, over the years, it seems to me that its style has become more gentrified and less rustic. Nonetheless, it's still the perfect spaghetti red.

The wine is imported by Winebow, Inc. New York, NY.

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