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Picks & Pans from March to February 2000

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (3/27/00) is 1999 Saintsbury, Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Carneros ($8.00)

Light garnet in color with a truly delightful floral and strawberry nose, this wine is surprisingly rich and full bodied with a great mid-palate. It delivers plenty of red berry (strawberry and raspberry) flavors enhanced by a light petillance (fizz). It's released on April 1st. This wine would be perfect with a cold lobster salad.

This week's wine (3/20/00) is 1997 Hawk Crest, Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($12.00)

Deep purple in color with long long legs, this Cabernet has an attractive and warm eucalyptus nose with some herbaceousness. On the palate, it delivers plenty of black fruit and tarry flavors with together with tobacco notes. It's well structured with a nice balance of fruit and soft tannins. The finish is ample with hints of unripe peach. This is serious Cabernet and a good value. This wine would definitely enhance a thick slice of prime rib.

TableWine Update: We were in California last week tasting wines and meeting with winemakers for a couple of TableWine features. Later this month, I'll be posting one on the efforts of Mondavi and Gallo to produce serious wines at reasonable prices.

This week's wine (3/6/00) is 1998 Gallo of Sonoma, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($9.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has an enticing nose of vanilla and pears with some hints of toast. On entry, it's buttery smooth and full bodied, delivering plenty of vanilla and pear flavors with some citrus notes. It's well structured with good acidity and has a long vanilla citrus finish. This wine would be a perfect accompaniment for veal or turkey-breast paillard, or you might even try it with a wine-based seafood pasta dish. Definitely a great value.

This week's wine (2/28/00) is 1998 Echelon, Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($12.99)

Ruby in color, this wine has good legs and a cherry and raspberry nose that wafts from the glass and makes your mouth water. Full bodied and quite dry, it delivers plenty of dry cherry and subtle spice flavors. It's well structured with balanced fruit and tannins that might need some time to soften. It also has a nice dry finish. Try this wine with grilled lamb chops or salmon.

This week's wine (2/21/00) is 1998 F.H. Schumann, Rheingau Riesling "Christopher Phillip", Qualitatwein ($9.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a big nose of minerals and citrus, with hints of pear. Medium bodied and dry, it delivers plenty of lemon-citrus flavor with toast notes and just a hint of subtle sweetness. It has good acidity and a long finish with dry flavors. This is a textbook Rhinegau Riesling at a good price. I would recommend serving it with a simply prepared pork tenderloin or perhaps a plate of wursts. The brand agent for this wine is Chapin Cellars Ltd., Virginia Beach, VA.

This week's wine (2/14/00) is 1999 Altos, Malbec "Las Hormigas", Mendoza, Argentina ($8.99)

Deep ruby to purple in color with long, long legs, this wine has a nose that leaps from the glass and charms you with aromas of cloves, cinnamon, and hints of cherry. Medium to full bodied, it's packed with plum and black-pepper flavors surrounded by mild tannins. Silky on the tongue, the wine has a good spicy finish with flavors that linger. Give this wine some time to breath and perhaps some time in the cellar. A real find from Argentina, which has become known for its Malbec. This wine would be a perfect match for grilled sausages. It's imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset NY.

This week's wine (2/7/2000) is 1997, Bois du Renard, Marsanne, Vin de Pays D'Oc ($9.00)

Light gold in color, this wine from France's Minervois district has an alluring fragrant nose of honey and apples. Full bodied and dry, it's crisp on the palate with herbaceous flavors and lemony acidity. There's also just a light hint of oak. The wine's flavors linger after a long finish with hints of bitter almond. This wine would be perfect with grilled prawns or veal cutlets. If you're looking for something refreshingly new in whites, this is it.

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