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Picks & Pans from January 2000 to November 1999

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Most are picks; a few are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (1/31/2000) is 1998 Penfolds, Koonunga Hill, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia ($9.99)

Deep purple in color with plentiful long legs, this wine has a big nose full of black cherry and licorice with hints of tar and oak. On the palate, it's dry and jammy with plenty of extract and luscious flavors of black cherry and blue plums along with underpinnings of tobacco and licorice. It has a long finish with lingering flavors. The wine is well structured with a balance of fruit and tannin. Enjoy this wine with hearty fare like a beef stew or braised lamb shanks or even after dinner with a cheese board. A real value for those who like their wines big and full bodied.

Note: Be sure to check out this month's feature, More Matter and Less Art?, which looks at southern Rhone and Rhone blends as well as old- and new-world winemaking styles.

This week's wine (1/24/2000) is 1997 Coltibuono, Chianti Classico, "Roberto Stucchi" ($15.99)

Deep ruby in color with long legs, this wine has an attractive nose of black cherry and iris with a hint of wood. It's medium bodied and dry, with mild tannins and fruit in good balance. It delivers flavors of black cherry and spice and has has just the right amount of acidity for a dinner wine. It finishes well and its flavors linger on the palate. This is an elegant Chianti and would go well with pasta in a light tomato sauce or a grilled flank steak.

This week's wine (1/17/2000) is 1998 Robert Mondavi, Coastal Merlot, Central Coast ($9.99)

Opaque ruby in color with good legs, this wine has an understated earthy, cherry nose. It's dry and has rather thin, diluted cherry and oak flavors. The fruit and tannins seem to compete. The finish is also somewhat tannic. Not exactly my choice for a budget Merlot.

This week's wine (1/10/2000) is 1998 Pepperwood Grove, Syrah, California ($8.99)

Deep ruby in color with nice legs, this wine has a seductive nose of cassis and black pepper with subtle hints of roasted chestnuts. Velvety smooth, it delivers jammy wild-cherry flavors with an underpinning of white pepper and spice. It's well structured with mild tannins and good extract. Its long, slow finish brings you back for another gulp. This is a real bargain and would be great with a winter stew or grilled lamb.

This week's wine (1/3/2000) is 1998 Domaine de l'Arjolle, Sauvignon, Vin de Pays, Cotes de Thongue ($11.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a rich herbaceous nose with hints of melon. It's both crisp and dry and delivers flinty flavors with undertones of grapefruit citrus. It also has a good finish with flavors that linger. This is more of an old-world style Sauvignon Blanc and neither heady with exotic fruit nor heavy with oak. Would be wonderful with seafood or shellfish.

This week's wine (12/27/99) is 1995 Gallo of Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($9.99)

Deep dark purple in color with nice long legs, this wine has a big nose of black cherries, dried figs, and earth. On the tongue, it delivers loads of tobacco, black cherry, and oak flavors nicely structured with good tannins. It has a good finish with a bit of a spicy kick. You might give it some breathing time before serving. This wine's a real value and well worth trying. It's inexpensive enough to serve with burgers but save it for a good steak.

This week's wine (12/20/99) is 1998 Rabbit Ridge Chardonnay "Barrel Cuvee" California ($6.99)

Light gold in color, this wine has a big buttery nose of vanilla, honeysuckle, and apricot. Crisp on entry and dry, it delivers flavors of oak and ripe pineapple in perfect balance. It's almost creamy on the tongue and has quite a nice finish. The wine has enough acidity to stand up to food. It would be great with grilled chicken or fish. A great value at this price.

This week's wine (12/13/99) is 1998 Prat-Majou, Minervois "Keim" Minervois ($7.99)

Dark ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a big deep nose of black fruit and currants. Dry and smooth, it delivers loads of plum and spice flavors wrapped in mild tannins. It also has a nice finish with a hint of berries. Give this wine a little breathing time to enjoy it at its fullest or even put a bottle or two away for some aging.  I think it would be great with steak or, at this price, even with burgers or pizza. This rustic wine has an elegance all its own.

This week's wine (12/6/99) is 1998 Voss Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($15.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has an attractive herbaceous nose with hints of tropical fruit. On the tongue, it's crisp with flavors of grapefruit and lemon. It has wonderful acidity that should let it stand up to most dishes that call for a white wine. The finish is long and the flavors linger on the palate. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that seems proud of its heritage and that's not trying to be a Chardonnay. I would probably serve this wine with a baked white fish.

This week's wine (11/29/99) is 1998 Domaine de l'Arjolle, "Equinoxe" Vin de Pays Cotes de Thongue ($17.99)

Wow. This is an exciting wine. Pale straw in color with a big nose of dried apricots and hints of Muscat, this blend of Viognier and Sauvignon is dry, full bodied, and full of flavor. On the tongue it's buttery and packed with tropical fruit flavors intertwined with grapefruit citrus notes. The finish is long and the flavors linger. Although it has adequate acidity to stand up to most foods, I would avoid serving it with heavily spiced fare. If you're looking for an eye-opening aperitif, this is it. The wine is imported by Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA.

This week's wine (11/22/99) is 1999 Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau ($8.99)

Ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a big, red cherry, berry nose. It's full of unrestrained Gamay flavor with hints of strawberries and grass. It has adequate acidity; so it should stand up well to food. It's seductive and charming, but like most ingénues will quickly fade. So, have fun with it, enjoy it now and, after a month or so, bid it adieu.

Have a great Thanksgiving.

This week's wine (11/15/99) is 1997 Maison Bigot & Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain ($18.99)

Dark ruby in color with long legs, this wine, a blend of Pinot Noir and some Gamay, has an earthy, beefy nose with hints of cherry. On the palate, it's dry with good acidity. It delivers loads of chewy, earthy flavors with tobacco and boysenberry notes accompanied by mild tannins. It has a good finish as well. This is not a pretty Pinot Noir like most from California Pinots, but rather a rugged earthy straightforward wine. Great with lamb.

This week's wine (11/08/99) is 1997 Argyle, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($16.99)

Light garnet in color with good legs, this wine has a subtle red cherry nose. The entry is smooth. On the palate, the wine is dry with mild tannins but the cherry flavors are diluted. It's too light bodied for my taste. There's some spice on the finish. Needless to say, I was disappointed.

This week's wine (11/01/99) is 1997 Rodney Strong, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Northern Sonoma ($14.99)

Garnet in color with good legs, this Pinot Noir has a lovely nose of roses and cherries. On the palate, it's medium bodied with a nice balance of fruit and tannin. It delivers plenty of fruit (mostly cherry) and spice (cinnamon) flavors. The wine finishes well with hints of spice and its flavors linger on the tongue. Try this wine with salmon or perhaps even with turkey.

Just posted a review of two new useful and enjoyable books by Oz Clarke on our Books Page. 

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