Join Our Mailing List Enter your e-mail address Subscribe Unsubscribe

Picks & Pans from April 1999 to November 1998

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Some are picks; others are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (4/26/99) is 1996 Indigo Hills, Pinot Noir, Mendocino County ($7.99)

Deep garnet in color, the wine has good legs and a cherry nose. On the palate, it's quite dry with, unfortunately, more tannin that fruit. I found this wine to be a little thin and somewhat short on the finish. I was expecting more from this attractively packaged wine. For a few dollars more, there are a number of better choices; for instance, the 1996 Cartlidge and Browne we reviewed in our October feature, The Seduction of Pinot Noir.

This week's wine (4/19/99) is 1998 Basa, White Wine, Rueda ($7.99)

Pale chartreuse in color, this Spanish Sauvignon Blanc from Rueda has a lush, beautiful nose of herbs, grass, and gooseberries. Smooth on entry, it's lemony and somewhat unctuous on the palate with some vegetal undertones. It also has a good finish. At $7.99, this wine is a real bargain. For more Sauvignon Blancs, see this month's feature, Wines for Spring. 

This week's wine (4/12/99) is 1997, Pierre Boniface, Apremont, Vin de Savoie ($9.99).

Pale straw in color, this wine has an herbaceous and citrus nose with some hints of pear. Tart on entry, with just the slightest carbonation, it delivers crisp flavors of lemon and herbs. It also has a good finish. Made in the foothills of the Alps, this wine captures much of its provenance's character. It should go extremely well with seafood and would also make an excellent apéritif. At under $10, it's a great value.

This week's wine (4/5/99) is 1995, Tenuta del Portale, Aglianico del Vulture, DOC ($14.99).

This is the first time I ever tasted what some call "the Barolo of the South". Ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a nose rich in violets and black cherry. It's dry and full flavored with jammy fruits and mild tannins. The Aglianico grape is not as well known as Italy's Nebbiolo or Sangiovese grapes, but it is certainly worth discovering and tasting.

This week's wine (3/29/99) is 1995 Joguet, Chinon "Clos de la Cure" ($17.99).

We originally reviewed this wine last November in our feature Sensible Wines of the Loire Valley. This weekend we chose it to accompany a roast leg of lamb and still found it delightful. Ruby to garnet in color, the wine has an earthy nose with a bit of barnyard. It delivers plenty of flavor on the palate--loamy leathery flavors and black fruit. A fine example of Cabernet Franc. This wine is full bodied with a good mid-palate and finish. A fine example of the Loire's most famous red wine.

This week's wine (3/22/99) is 1997 Poliziano, Chianti Colli Sinesi (DOCG) ($7.99)

Deep ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a lovely nose of black cherry and violets. Dry and tannic on the palate, it's somewhat thin at first but, after some time in the glass, a bitter-almond flavor emerges. It's a little short on the finish--but, at this price, it might be worth a try. I'd recommend opening it an hour or so before drinking.

This week's wine (3/15/99) is 1997 Clerico, Dolcetto D'Alba ($15.99)

Deep dark ruby in color, this wine has an inviting nose of red berries and anise. The wine is  soft-bodied, low in acidity, with luscious red-cherry and subtle almond flavors, followed by a more than adequate finish. It also has a certain "warming" quality to it. Despite its low acidity, the wine stood up quite well to a winter stew. A textbook Dolcetto and a perfect introduction to this varietal.

This week's wine (3/8/99) is 1997 Calatrasi, "Terrale", Tarantino (Primitivo) ($6.99)

Dark red in color with good legs, this wine has a distinctive nose of raspberries and earth. On the palate, it's full of flavor, delivering raspberries with hints of citrus wrapped in mild tannins. The wine has a good finish and flavors that just seem to linger. Great with braised or roasted lamb. (I should note that this wine is made from the Primitivo grape, thought by some to be the source of American Zinfandel.) This inexpensive red is a real bargain; get it before it becomes better known and higher priced.

This week's wine (3/1/99) is 1997 Templai, Saumur-Champigny ($12.99)

Rumor has it that this is the hot wine in Paris bistros. But even if that's hype, this Cabernet Franc-based red from the Loire Valley is a winner. Ruby in color with good legs, the wine has a sharp fruity nose of raspberries and red fruit. On the palate, it's dry, somewhat tannic, and full bodied, displaying flavors of black cherry and tea. It also has a very nice finish. This is a gulpable wine that, as one taster put it, "just becomes more delicious as you drink it." It would go well with most bistro fare, stews, steak and fries, perhaps even with some pate.

This week's (2/22/99) wine is 1997 Fitz-Ritter, Durkheimer Spielberg, Chardonnay Spatlese, Trocken, Pfalz ($9.99)

If you can get through the label, this wine is worth a try. It's the first German Chardonnay I have ever tasted and it's certainly unique. In fact, if tasted blind, I probably would not have identified it as a Chardonnay. Pale straw in color with a huge nose of apricots, it delivers plenty of body and tart citrus flavors. It's quite dry but with a subtle fruitiness that teases the palate. It has good acidity and a nice finish. This is an ebullient atypical Chardonnay that would go wonderfully well with a pork roast and fresh sauerkraut or a variety of wursts. Check out their website at www.vinonet.com/fitz-ritter.htm.

This week's (2/15/99) wine is 1997 Falesco, Vitiano, Rosso Umbria ($8.99).

Deep garnet in color with good legs, this wine has a big nose of black cherry and tobacco. It's dry, packed with flavor of bitter almond and spice complemented by mild tannins. It has good body and a nice finish. At this price, it's a real bargain from a great Italian vintage. The wine is made from almost equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese and would make a perfect accompaniment for a spicy pasta dish like arrabbiata or puttanesca.

This week's (2/8/99) wine is 1997 Hawk Crest, Chardonnay, California ($9.99).

This is Stag's Leap's second label. Pale straw in color with butter and vanilla on the nose with hints of pear. It has a good entry and is full bodied. On the palate, it's buttery with hints of bitter almond. It also has a nice finish. For more second-label and value-line chardonnays, see our lastest feature, Seconds Anyone?

This week's (2/1/99) wine is 1996 Flora Springs, Merlot, Napa Valley, ($19.99)

Deep ruby in color, with long legs, this wine has an intoxicating nose of red berries and plums with a subtle herbaceousness. Its bold entry and excellent mid-palate reflect this Merlot's full-bodied style. It's rich in flavor with jammy fruit and berries, and also has an atypical, but welcome, hint of spice. Some mild tannins make me think this wine will even improve with a little age. It also has a great finish. I have never been a lover Merlots, but this example may make a convert of me. Enjoy this wine with a good piece of beef or roasted game. Looking for a Valentine's Day wine? This would be a good choice; it might even go well with some of those Valentine's chocolates.

This week's (1/25/99) wine is 1997 Bonny Doon Vineyard, Cardinal Zin, California Zinfandel ($15.00)

This zinfandel has a beautiful garnet color and good legs. Its nose, big with raspberries and hints of vanilla, leaps from the glass. It's jam-packed with red-fruit and subtle black-pepper flavors. Silky on the tongue, with a good mid-palate, this zin has a lot of finesse and a nice finish. This wine may be hard to find (I had to special order it), but it's worth the effort.

This week's (1/11/99) wine is 1996 Ridge, California Zinfandel, Sonoma Station ($17.99)

Deep ruby in color, this zin has long, long legs and a black-pepper nose. On the palate it's dry, with good tannins and jammy, packed with black cherry and tobacco flavors. It has a good finish. Pricey, but still the most affordable of one of California's best producers of zinfandel. Given the proportion of tannin to fruit, it might be even better with a few years of aging.

This week's (1/4/99) wine is 1996  Reds, California ($7.99)

This wine, produced by Laurel Glen Vineyard, is deep ruby in color, It has good legs, a berry nose with hints of plum and cedar. Smooth on entry, it delivers dry, cherry flavors on the tongue, but is a little thin and lacking at mid-palate. It has an adequate finish. Not a bad red red for the price. Best with simple fare or maybe just with cheese.

This week's (12/28/98) wine is 1997 Echelon Chardonnay, Central Coast ($10.99)

Pale gold in color, the wine has a fragrant butterscotch and vanilla nose. Smooth on entry, it has good body and nice acidity. It's buttery on the tongue with hints of pineapple and citrus. It also has a good finish. If you're looking for oak, this Chardonnay is not for you. But if you prefer understated elegance, try this wine. I have found it on a number of restaurant wine lists and, even with the standard markup, it's a good value.

This week's (12/21/98) wine is 1997 Beringer Chenin Blanc, California ($6.99)

Almost clear with hints of pale straw, this wine has a lovely nose with hints of Anjou pear and honeydew. On the palate, it's pleasantly fruity yet still dry. It has good body and acidity and delivers melon together with some citrus flavors. A nice mid-palate and an adequate finish. It would go especially well with an omelet or pasta primavera. For the price, this Chenin Blanc is a real value. (Let's hope Chenin Blanc doesn't become too popular.)

This week's (12/14/98) wine is Osprey's Dominion, "Regina Maris" Chardonnay, North Fork of Long Island ($9.99).

Pale straw in color, with a huge vanilla and mango nose, this unpretentious wine is quite dry on the palate with green apple and citrus flavors together with an underpinning of oak. It has an adequate body and a nice finish. It should go well with simple seafood. It may be difficult to find this wine outside of New York, but it's worth a try. The winemaker has a website at www.ospreysdominion.com.

This week's (12/7/98) wine is 1995 Taurino, Salice Salentino Riserva, ($8.99).

The wine is deep garnet in color with a strong nose of earth and tobacco that wafts from the glass. On the palate, it's quite dry, a little tannic with flavors of dry figs, currants, and black pepper. It has a good finish. This '95 is somewhat milder than other vintages I've tasted, but it's still a perfect wine for a pepperoni pizza, spagehetti and meatballs, or a plain old burger.

This week's (12/1/98) wine is lifted from our monthly feature, Sensible Wines of the Loire Valley.

1996 Sauvion, Muscadet, Sevre et Maine ($5.99). Pale yellow in color with hints of green and with an almost sweet grassy nose, this wine is crisp and dry. It delivers clean, very dry flavors with some acidity on the finish. One taster felt it had a "nectar-like essence." This is a text-book Muscadet and a real bargain given its price. Try it with some raw oysters or even with some chevre.

This week's (11/22/98) wine is 1996 Turtle Run Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($12.99).

This wine was highly recommended but proved to be major disappointment. Its deep ruby color is possibly its only asset. An atypical and unappealing vegetal nose with only a hint of black pepper is followed by very dry concord grape flavors. Although full bodied, it's far too tannic for the amount of fruit and it leaves an unpleasant after taste. Off putting to say the least. For three dollars less, the 1997 Cline Zinfandel, reviewed below, is a far better choice.

This week's (11/16/98) wine is 1997 Cartlidge and Browne Merlot, California ($9.99).

Dark red color, good legs, and a pleasant, black cherry, artichoke nose promise more than this wine delivers. It has a smooth entry, but on the tongue the wine is dry, a little too tannic, and somewhat thin. Black cherry and tea are its predominant flavors. But there is not the proper balance of fruit and tannin. It also has a very dry finish. Given how fashionable Merlot has become, I think it would be difficult to find a truly good one at this price.

This week's (11/9/98) selection is 1997 Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, California and Washington State ($10.99).

Looking for a white wine that has real personality? Then try this wonderful dry Riesling from Randall Grahm, the iconoclastic producer of  truly unique and exceptional California wines. It has a beautiful straw to pale gold color and an enticing herbaceous nose with hints of pear, melon, and vanilla. The entry is crisp and displays good acidity. On the tongue, the wine is full bodied and rich--almost creamy--with a good mid-palate. Steely and citrusy, the flavors are crisp and fresh. It also has a great finish. This wine would go perfectly with a simple pork roast or could serve as a counterpoint to grilled salmon with dill sauce. You might even want to try it as an apéritif.

   This week's (11/2/98) wine selection is 1996 Cline Zinfandel California ($9.99).

  Deep dark red in color, this wine has a big nose of ripe red berries and black pepper that wafts from the glass with hints of sweetness. Its full body delivers distinctive black cherry and black pepper flavors from the moment the wine touches the tongue. It has good acidity, a fine mid-palate, and a long finish. This is an unpretentious, text book zin. It's well worth the price. Try it with spicy sausage or a hearty bean soup.

Wine of the Week Archives

Send mail to info@tablewine.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 1998 TableWine