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Picks & Pans from July to May 1999

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Some are picks; others are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.

This week's wine (7/26/99) is 1997 Bois du Renard Syrah Vieilles Vignes, Vin de Pays D'oc ($9.99)

Deep ruby in color with good legs, the wine has a seductive nose of black cherry and crushed black pepper. It's smooth and silky on the tongue with plenty of dry, jammy flavors, predominantly of plums. It also has a pleasant finish. The wine is imported by American Wine Distributors, Inc. in San Francisco. This is an excellent value and would be perfect with grilled meats.

This week's wine (7/19/99) is 1997 San Bonifacio, Merlot, Veneto, IGT ($7.99)

Garnet in color with long legs, this Merlot from Italy's Veneto region has a forward nose that's big with red berries and cassis. Light bodied but full flavored, it shows plenty of fruit on the palate and has an adequate finish. The wine is imported by Costello Wines in New York. I'm generally not a fan of Merlot, but this one's well worth seeking out.

This week's wine (7/12/99) is N.V. (Bottled in 1999) Famega, Vinho Verde, Branco ($4.99)

Almost clear in color, this wine has a forward sweet nose of honeysuckle. On the tongue, there's a refreshing spritz. A good example of what in wine parlance is referred to as "petillance." On the palate, citrusy flavors are followed by hints of smoky bacon. The wine also has a nice finish. For more on Vinhos Verdes, see this month's feature, Salad Days Wine. 

This week's wine (7/5/99) is N.V. Fossi, Fossi Rosso, Vino da Tavola, Fiesole, ($5.99)

Ruby in color with good legs, this wine has an earthy, raisiny nose. Light bodied and dry, though not overly tannic, it has plenty of tart fruit and meaty flavor and just enough acidity to stand up to most foods. You might enjoy this wine with a pizza, a plate of pasta sauced with a meaty ragu, or even simply over a sliced peach in a tall glass on a hot summer afternoon. At $5.99, this wine is definitely a bargain and worth seeking out. I found mine at Best Cellars in New York. 

This week's wine (6/28/99) is 1996 Jean Gambier, Bourgueil, "Cuvee Ronsard", Selection Particulier, ($18.99)

Deep ruby in color, this Cabernet Franc based red from the Loire has long, long legs and a big nose of ripe red fruit, mostly plum and cherry. Its tannins and fruit are well balanced, but it's still a little tight and might open more with some age. On the palate, it has good body and plenty of flavor with hints of currants, wood, and tobacco. It also finishes quite well. For those of us who just can't give up reds in the summer, this is the perfect wine. Great with bistro fare, roasted poultry, and even a simple grilled steak.

This week's wine (6/8/99) is N.V. Bridgeview Vineyards and Winery, "Blue Moon" Riesling, Oregon ($6.50)

This is a truly delightful wine. Pale straw in color, it has a charming nose of orange blossoms with hints of pear. On the palate, it's crisp and refreshing with good acidity and flavors that teasingly vacillate between dry (citrus/minerals) and fruity (honey). It also finishes nicely. This is a quaffable summer wine at an unbelievable price, which since this wine was given to me by a friend and fellow wine enthusiast, I had to hunt down on the web. Here's a link to their website: Bridgeview Vineyards and Winery.

This week's wine (6/1/99) is 1998 Domaine Corsin, Macon-Villages ($15.99)

This is a wonderful Macon-Villages. It's straw colored with an intoxicating nose of apricot and honeysuckle. On the palate, the wine is full bodied, dry, and packed with flavors of citrus, honey, and pear. It's extremely well structured with just the right amount of acidity to accompany a grilled salmon or other similar fish. It may seem relatively pricey for a Macon-Villages, but it's worth it.

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This week's wine (5/24/99) is 1995 Commanderie de la Bargemone, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence, $9.99

Light garnet in color, this wine from Provence has good legs and a delightful nose of red berries and cassis. On the palate, it's medium bodied and delivers flavors of black cherry and bitter almonds along with mild tannins. Best with poultry, roast veal, or lighter fare.

This week's wine (5/17/99) is 1997 Georges Duboeuf, Cote-de-Brouilly, 1er Prix, $10.99

Deep garnet in color with long legs, the wine has a blackberry nose. Smooth on entry, this wine is full of flavor, predominantly of blueberries, and full bodied. The wine has a perfect balance of tannin to fruit. It also has a very nice finish.

For more Beaujolais picks, take a look at this month's feature: Did Somebody Say Beaujolais?

This week's wine (5/10/99) is 1996 Cline, "Cotes D'Oakley" Vin Rouge. California Table Wine ($7.99)

This Rhone style red (a blend of Carignane, Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Alicante) is garnet in color and has good legs. The nose is forward with black cherry and cassis. On the palate, the wine is dry and light bodied with plenty of flavor mostly of cherry and oak. It also finishes quite well. This is a perfect barbecue wine and a great value. Give it some air before serving.

This week's wine (5/3/99) is 1996 B.R. Cohn, Cabernet Sauvignon, "Silver Label" 75% San Luis Obispo County 25% Sonoma ($13.99)

Deep ruby in color and showing long legs, this wine has a charming nose of cassis and currants. A silky entry is followed by flavors of black cherry and cassis with a backbone of firm tannins. It's full bodied and has a long finish. I'd give this wine some time to breathe before serving or maybe a little more bottle age. A nice value.

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