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Picks & Pans from October 1999 to August 1999

Wine of the Week reviews one wine each week. Some are picks; others are pans. Please write in and let us know if you agree or disagree with our opinion. Note: The wine prices in our reviews and throughout our web site are the prices we pay (before any discount) at our local wine stores. They are given solely as guidelines. We do not sell any wines.


This week's wine (10/25/99) is 1997 Travis Chardonnay, Monterey ($12.00)

Pale gold in color with a big vanilla and burnt-sugar nose, this unfiltered Chardonnay is buttery and smooth on entry. It's dry and full-bodied with nut-like flavors and a lemon citrus acidity. It also finishes quite well. If you're looking for heavy oak, look elsewhere. If you're looking for a Chardonnay that's more French in style, this could be it. You might enjoy this wine with sautéed chicken breasts or perhaps even with a cheese omelet.

 

 


This week's wine (10/18/99) is 1998 Chateau Sainte-Croix, "Le Quatourre", Coteaux Du Languedoc ($8.99)

This wine has a rich ruby color, long, long legs, and a huge nose of blackberries, fresh pepper, and currants. After a silky entry, it delivers plenty of jammy flavor with hints of black cherry and some spice. The wine is well structured, with fruit and mild tannins in good balance. It finishes adequately with a nice hint of spice. I enjoyed this wine with, of all things, a savory spinach pizza topped with artichoke slices. The wine would go well with most Mediterranean fare as well as with grilled meats. Imported by Hand Picked Selections of Warrenton, Virginia.

 


This week's wine (10/11/99) is 1998 Chateau Prat de Cest, Corbieres ($8.99)

Deep ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a full nose of currants and cassis. On the palate, it's full bodied and dry with mild tannins. Well structured and packed with flavors of raspberry and fresh pepper, the wine has a long, dry finish with a tickle of spice. A great value from the rediscovered Languedoc region of France. This wine would be perfect with grilled lamb chops and potatoes roasted with rosemary. 

 

 

 

 


This week's wine (10/04/99) is Non-vintage Vendange Cabernet Sauvignon "Autumn Harvest", California ($3.99)

Ruby in color with good legs, this wine has a black cherry and cedar nose. It's soft bodied and dry with some spice and mild tannins on the palate. There's not a lot of flavor, but what's there is pleasant enough. It's also a little short on the finish. I must admit, however, that I was surprised that such an inexpensive Cabernet was not at all offensive and might well please drinkers who prefer a very soft red. If you have an opinion about this wine, please post a note in the TableWine Forum under Personal Wine Reviews.

 

 


This week's wine (9/27/99) is 1997 Bonny Doon, Monterey Gewürztraminer, California ($14.99)

This is a dry Gewürztraminer that seems to tease the palate with a just hint of sweetness. Pale gold in color, the wine has a distinctive nose of lychees and honey. Its crisp entry is followed by a flavorful counterpoint between the classic bitterness of the Gewürztraminer grape and the subtle vanilla sweetness of wood. This wine has plenty of body, flavor, and nice acidity. It will stand up to the spiciest Chinese cuisine or complement the blandest New England boiled dinner. Another unique wine from Bonny Doon. I loved it. 

 

 


This week's wine (9/20/99) is 1997 Hogue Cellars, Johannisberg Riesling, Washington State ($7.99)

Gold in color, the wine has a big nose of dried figs. On the tongue, it's crisp with good body and acidity. Its initial flavors of figs together with some apricot are followed by a tart grapefruit finish. This wine makes a great accompaniment for grilled wursts. For more on Rieslings, see this month's feature, The Rape of the Grape.

 

 

 

 


This week's wine (9/13/99) is 1998 Paolo Scavino, Dolcetto D'Alba, DOC ($16.99)

This is a classic Dolcetto from Italy's Piedmont region. Deep purple in color with beautifully long legs, this wine has a clean blueberry nose that leaps from the glass. Smooth and velvety on the tongue, it's soft bodied, dry, and packed with blueberry and spice flavors. It's well balanced with mild tannins and has just enough acidity to make it perfect with most pasta dishes or roasted meats. It also finishes with a just a hint of almonds. Granted it may be a bit pricey, but this wine's worth seeking out. It's imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY.

 

 

 


This week's wine (9/6/99) is 1997 Bogle, Zinfandel, Old Vine Cuvee, California ($11.99)

This big and forward Zinfandel is ruby in color and teases you with long, long legs. Its nose is predominantly spice and crushed black pepper with hints of plum. Smooth and silky on entry, it's packed with jammy black cherry and cedar flavors. Full bodied and well balanced with mild tannins, the wine finishes beautifully. In short, a classic zinfandel at a reasonable price. I would pair this zin with grilled sausage and peppers, lamb chops, or perhaps even with a cheese board for dessert.

 

 

 


This week's wine (8/30/99) is 1996 Gallo of Sonoma, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($9.99)

Deep purple in color, this cabernet has good legs and a huge nose of currants and red berries. On the palate, it's smooth. Full bodied with good acidity, it also has nicely balanced fruit and tannins. It delivers plenty of flavor with hints of tobacco, spice, and ripe fruit. It also finishes nicely. I think that  Gallo is finally succeeding  in its effort to establish itself as a serious wine maker and is relying on art rather than on chemistry to produce better wine. Try this one.

 

 


This week's wine (8/23/99) is N.V. Renardat-Fache, Vin de Bugey, Cerdon, Methode Ancestrale ($17.99)

This is a quite literally a beautiful wine. Prom-dress pink in color, with an enticing peach and raspberry nose, this bubbly Cerdon teases the palate with semi-sweet peach and berry flavors. It's well balanced, has good acidity, and finishes nicely. Its flavors linger on the palate. This wine just makes you want to celebrate. Indeed, if you're looking for a wine to serve with a birthday cake, this is it. The wine is imported by Louis/Dressner of New York. For more detailed information about it, go to their website at www.louisdressner.com.

 

 


This week's wine (8/16/99) is 1998 Domaine de L'Ameillaud, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse ($5.99)

This red Rhone wine is deep ruby in color and shows good legs. It has a forward nose of currants and black pepper that seems to leap from the glass. Smooth on entry, this wine delivers plenty of spice and pepper along with mild tannins and good acidity. And its flavors linger on the palate. This is a most pleasant wine and, given its price, a remarkable value. This is one of nine wines perfect for barbecues that we just reviewed in this month's feature, Barbecue Wines: Think BBQ.

 

 

 

 


This week's wine (8/9/99) is 1998 Fitz-Ritter Spatburgunder Rotwein Trocken. Pfalz ($13.99)

This German Pinot Noir is garnet in color and has good legs. Its nose is distinctively wild cherry and almost leaps from the glass. On the palate, the wine is soft, medium bodied, and packed with cherry flavors that are pleasantly fruity. It also finishes quite smoothly. This is a most pleasant red that even white-wine lovers will enjoy. Check out the Fitz-Ritter website at www.vinonet.com/fitz-ritter.htm.

 

 

 


This week's wine (8/2/99) is 1997 La Calonica, San Giovese della Calonica, Toscana IGT ($9.99)

Ruby colored with long legs and a sweet nose of iris and red berries, this Tuscan Sangiovese, from a great vintage, is medium bodied and quite dry. It's packed with the flavor of raspberries, has good acidity, and an adequate finish. This super-value Tuscan would be the perfect accompaniment for a plate of carpaccio, or a steak grilled Tuscan style, or even just a pizza. This wine is imported by Panebianco, New York. 

 

 

 


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