I’ve Got a Little List...

There are times in the lives of restaurant goers that when the waiter or, worse yet, the sommelier presents them with a wine list, they might feel somewhat intimidated. It's as though they’ve met the Lord High Executioner from Gilbert & Sullivan’s Mikado, whose "little list" contains the names of "society offenders" and, should they choose the wrong wine, they "might well be under ground and never would be missed." But is there a wrong wine?

First off, if there is a wrong wine on the list, it’s the restaurant owner who should feel embarrassed and be held accountable. After all, it’s the responsibility of the person who composed the list to make sure that it contains only high quality wines and that they have been stored properly and are in good condition when presented at the table. The owner’s staff should also be knowledgeable enough both to suggest several wines that would complement the foods that have been ordered and to answer any questions that a diner might have about any items on the list. However, all too often this is not the case. And you are left with the big decision. What do you do?

If you have not been reading our feature articles, or are not up to date on the latest vintages, or you’re just beginning to learn about wine, don’t hesitate to ask the waiter or wine steward about wines on the list. There should be at least one person on the wait staff who knows about the restaurant’s selections. Listen to their suggestions, and then say you need a few minutes to make up your mind. After all, one does not make life-or-death decisions too hastily.

Next turn to your companion or fellow diners and ask if they have any preferences: red or white; Cabernet or Chardonnay; do they want to try something new and different? Now, at least it’s not all on your shoulders. But then come the dreaded words: "No, you choose; you’re the expert." The pressure is on.

Let’s say you’re a party of six and are having appetizers and a main course. You will probably need at least two bottles of wine for the meal. (We’ll talk about wines by the glass later on.) I have found that whites are most often the best choice for almost all appetizers, unless everyone at the table is a hearty beefeater and starting with steak tartar followed by sirloin. Champagne or sparkling whites make a great accompaniment for many appetizers and, if price is no object, might be a good choice. Avoid, however,  the Dom Perignon or other tetes de cuvees. The markup on these wines is often considerable. Look for a good California sparkler like a Domaine Chandon, Schramsberg, Iron Horse, or Scharfenberger. In fact, if they’re not too overpriced, you might simply stick with these sparklers for the entire meal. (Stay away, however, from extra-dry or demi-sec sparklers, as they tend to be a bit too fruity for dinner wines.)

If champagne is out of your budget, look for a dry white like a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, an Alsatian Pinot Blanc, an Italian Pinot Grigio, or, one of my favorites, a French Macon. Most of these wines should be drunk relatively young. If they’re more than two or three years old, watch out. These wines would go well with most appetizers or first courses provided they have adequate acidity to stand up to the food. I have also found that the Sauvignon Blancs and especially the Macons are good values as well. If you’re six people, you might even need two bottles for the table if people are ordering fish or white meats for their main course and if, as I hope, you’ve skipped cocktails. (Cocktails and wine simply don’t go well together.)

While we’re on whites, let’s talk about ice buckets. If you’ve opted for Champagne, an ice bucket is almost essential. As for other whites, I have found that, as long as they’ve been chilled properly, you really don’t need an ice bucket. Remember that you want to taste the wine and if it’s too cold, you might as well be drinking water. On the other hand, if you’re eating very slowly or dining al fresco on a hot summer day, get the bucket.

As for prices, remember the restaurant may have a hefty markup on all its wines, so be prepared to spend at least double the retail (not the discount) price. I have also found that the least expensive and the most expensive wines on the list typically have the highest markup and that the wines priced in the middle range often represent the best value. (I cannot prove this; it’s simply a matter of my observation and does not always hold up.)

Now we’re onto the reds. As I said earlier, you may, depending upon the entrees, decide to stick to the white you’ve been enjoying (I hope) with your first courses. But let’s say you’ve all ordered red meat dishes, or game, or stews and are up for reds. First off, order the red at the same time as the white and ask for it to be opened and that a little be poured off so that it can breathe. Even forty-five minutes or an hour can enhance a young red. On the other hand, if you’re ordering a vintage Bordeaux or Burgundy you may want it decanted. (And if it’s a really old vintage, you don’t want it to breathe too long. If you’re ordering wines of this caliber, however, you probably don’t even need to be reading this feature.)

My choice for a red these days is often a Pinot Noir. I find that it goes well with most red meats, game, poultry, fish, and bistro fare. Even grilled vegetables are enhanced. Moreover, many who find cabernets too dry or tannic often enjoy the fruit and suppleness of a good Pinot or Burgundy. Good Pinots can be expensive and if it’s too low in price, you might want another selection. Zinfandels would be fine if the entrees are all heavily seasoned or spicy and can also represent some good values. Other good values, especially in Italian restaurants, are Chianti Classico (but beware the plastic-straw covered bottles), Valpolicella, as well as Dolcetto D’Alba, or a young Rosso.

Unless you’re quite knowledgeable or totally trust your restaurant, be wary about ordering expensive Bordeaux, Burgundy, Brunello, or California Meritage wines. Often times, these really expensive wines may not have been stored properly and then you’re faced with the dreaded moment: dare I return this bottle of wine.

Returning wine in a restaurant should never be a problem. Even if it is simply a matter of tasting the wine and not liking it for any reason: smell, taste, after taste. A good restaurant should not give you any argument over returning a bottle. If they do, just don’t go back. On the other hand, don’t make a practice of this. It’s more ethical to taste on your dime than on a restaurant’s. Also take a moment to smell the cork. Do this simply. Remember, you’re smelling the cork not for the wine but to make sure that it doesn’t smell corky or rotten or bad. If it does, the wine will smell corked. (I’ve seen people go into rapture over a cork and I simply attribute this to pretentiousness.) When the waiter pours the sample into your glass, examine it. Look at its color, its clarity. (If it looks bad or cloudy, send it back.) Swirl it a little (don’t call too much attention to this act lest you wind up with wine all over the table cloth and on your shirt). Smell it. Does it smell bad? Smell it one more time. Does it still smell bad? Send it back. Taste it. Does it please your palate? Does it have a nice finish? If it doesn’t or if it just tastes bad, send it back. Also don’t hesitate to ask another person at the table for his or her opinion. Just do everything with confidence.

Finally, what to do about wines by the glass. My advice is that unless you’re at a very reputable wine bar or at a restaurant where there’s a lot of turnover, avoid them. Maybe at lunch or when you’re having a quick bite before the theater, a glass of the house red or white may be fine. Simply ask for the house wine and just make sure that it’s not over priced. Too often, when you see wines by the glass at $6, or $7 and up to $18 or $20 a glass, they’ve been open too long or not properly stored. And I wouldn’t be too confident in those vacuum pumps or fancy refrigerated display cellars. On the other hand, if you see a wine that you’ve always wanted to try and know that the bottle was just opened and that there’s no way you would ever spend that much for a bottle, you might indulge. Once, at a wine bar, several of us asked the server to open two bottles of hard-to-find and rather expensive ($150 to $175) Rhone wines and were willing to split the price of the bottles by the glass. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Without a doubt. But we all knew the merchant, knew how the wines had been stored, and actually saw them being opened. We also believed that it would be a long time before any of us could ever afford to buy such a bottle.

I guess this all boils down to using common sense, trusting your palate and your taste, as well as remembering that ordering wine can be be an adventure, not a challenge, and drinking it should always be a pleasure.