| All
too often, many of us looking for affordable red wine rule out
Bordeaux.
We seem to identify this region only with its most famous labels
like Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, or Haut Brion that go for hundreds
of dollars a bottle—especially in prime vintages like 1982 or 2000.
Indeed, even the “super-second” growths like Cos d’Estournel,
Leoville Las Cases, or Pichon Lalande can fetch phenomenal three-figure
prices.
Another
reason why some of us bypass this region seems to be a certain
intimidation factor: either the names of the wines are too
difficult to pronounce or we can’t quite navigate our way
through all the information on the label.
Finally,
an amalgamation of these reasons can also make us hesitate
to pick up a bottle of Bordeaux, especially when it sports
a $10 price tag. “How good can it be,” we think, “when other
wines from the region are twenty or thirty times the price?”
The
fact of the matter is that there are loads of great affordable
red Bordeaux out there, and finding the best values among
these great blends, based primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, is simply a matter of doing
a little research.
Because 2000
was such an extraordinary vintage, there’s been a lot of press devoted
to it. In addition to entire feature stories being devoted to it
in wine publications like The Wine Spectator, The Wine
Advocate, or The Wine Enthusiast, the vintage has received
a lot of attention both in national and in local newspapers. Recent
reviews of this vintage in the New York Times and The
Wall Street Journal are worth seeking out, as is the wealth
of information available on the Internet. In fact, The
Wine Spectator’s
“Bordeaux 2000” feature provides not only in-depth
coverage of this vintage but also contains a plethora of good basic
background material on the region. I especially recommend the menu
item “Bordeaux Basics.”
If you’re totally
new to Bordeaux or have just never really gotten the hang of it,
I cannot recommend a better place to start learning about it than
the official site of this region, Bordeaux.com.
Especially helpful are the site’s “Define” and “Refine” menu items.
If labels are a problem for you, be sure to check out their guide
to reading a label.
Possibly the
best reference source available, however, is a reputable and knowledgeable
wine merchant. One who knows his or her stock and understands what
you’re looking for. If, even after doing a lot of research, you’re
still lost amidst an array of undecipherable labels, tell your wine
dealer what you’re looking for in a Bordeaux: dry or slightly fruity;
medium or full bodied; ready to drink now or two or three years
down the road.
While
wine writers, critics, and merchants may all serve as great
places to start, the ultimate judge of the wines you enjoy
is your own palate. Reading and advice can give you the
information you need to shop for these wines, but only by
tasting them will you be able to discover what you like.
Some
serving notes: Since the 2000 vintage is relatively
young, I recommend that you give these wines adequate breathing
time before serving to enjoy them at their fullest. Uncork, pour
off an ounce or two, and let the bottle stand, away from any heat,
for a couple of hours. In fact, you might also decant the wine,
without any fuss, by simply pouring it rapidly from a height into
a glass pitcher. Doing so should allow the nose to develop and
may
even, to a degree, soften any tannins. If tannins are a problem
for you or one of your guests, check out vintage charts and guides.
They will sometimes indicate which vintages have particularly firm
tannins. Finally, if you've chosen a dud, as we all have on occasion,
be sure to have some great cheese and crusty bread on hand. You'll
understand better the old wine-merchants' maxim "Buy on apples;
sell on cheese."
For
this tasting, we lined up fourteen bottles that were recommended
either by our wine merchants or by a distributor. Now, given
the fact that all these wines are priced below $20, we did
not expect to find a great deal of complexity or age worthiness.
Instead, we were simply looking for wines that were ready
to drink now or over the next few years, and that would
be the perfect beverages to accompany a meal. I am happy
to report that none of them disappointed us; in fact, a
few truly surprised us with their intriguing noses, breadth
of flavors, and outstanding structure.
As is our custom,
we tasted the wines first on their own and then selected our favorites
to sample with the food, which for this tasting was grilled strip
steaks and baked potatoes. The wines are listed in the order in
which they were tasted.
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2000
Mayne Sansac, Bordeaux ($8.99)
Light ruby in color, this wine has gobs of legs
and an earthy nose, with leather and green bell-pepper
notes. On the palate, it’s medium bodied and well
structured, with supple tannins, good concentration
and adequate acidity for food. It offers bright tastes
of wild cherry, and it has good length, with a tart-cherry
finish. This wine was outstanding with the food A
star of this tasting. Imported by Fedway, Inc., South
Kearny, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Haut-La Pereyre, Bordeaux ($10.99)
Ruby in color, this wine has good legs and a pretty, sweet nose
of burnt sugar and cassis. Light to medium bodied and dry, it
has supple tannins and tart, red-cherry flavors that linger.
It’s nicely structured with good acidity. It finishes
nicely, with flavors that are consistent with the initial burnt
sugar and cassis. A simple, classic Bordeaux. Imported by Michel-Schlumberger
Wines, Ltd., Healdsburg, CA. |
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2000
Chateau Teyssier, Bordeaux ($11.99)
This blend of Merlot (58%), Cabernet Franc (29%), and
Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) is pale garnet in color with nice
legs. It has a pleasant nose of sweet red fruit tempered by
green bell pepper. On the palate, it’s dry and medium bodied
with good tannins. It delivers forward flavors of cherry,
cassis, and currants, along with some green bell pepper. It’s
well structured, with plenty of fruit concentration and supple
tannins. The flavors linger, and the wine has a lot of length,
with tart cherries on the finish. It was very good with the
food. Another star of this tasting. Imported by Regal Wine
Imports, Marlton, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Bel Air, Bordeaux ($11.99)
Pale ruby in color with pretty legs, this wine
has a restrained nose of black licorice and cassis.
Light to medium bodied, it has a silky mouth feel
and offers rock-candy and tart cherry flavors encased
in supple tannins. There’s good acidity for dining
and an adequate, dry, tart finish. Imported by Regal
Wine Imports, Marlton, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Du Bedat, Bordeaux ($11.99)
Deep ruby in color, this wine has loads of legs and a
restrained nose of burnt sugar and green bell pepper. Medium
bodied, it’s nicely structured with good fruit, acidity, and
soft tannins. It delivers tart plum and cherry flavors, with
some mineral undertones. The fruit seems to ripen as it lingers
on the palate. The wine has good length and a tart cherry
finish. It complemented the beef beautifully. Another star
of this tasting. Imported by Regal Wine Imports, Marlton,
NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Au Grand Paris, Bordeaux Superieur ($9.99)
Deep ruby in color, with lovely legs, this blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%), and Cabernet Franc
(5%) has a rather forward, green bell-pepper nose. It’s medium
bodied and moderately dry. On the palate, there are green
bell-pepper flavors along with slate notes. The flavors linger.
It finishes well, again with green bell pepper and slate.
Imported by Jeffrey M. Davies, Signature Selections, South
Kearny, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Sainte Marie Bordeaux Superieur ($11.99)
Deep ruby and gemlike in color, this wine has nice legs
and an earthy nose, with green bell-pepper and mushroom aromas.
On the palate, it’s dry and is light to medium bodied. It’s
well structured, with plenty of concentration supported by
supple tannins. Its initial mineral and chalk flavors are
followed by cassis and sweet cherry notes complemented by
some tartness. It has good length and finishes with a counterpoint
of sweet and tart cherries. It was very good with the food.
Imported by Regal Wine Imports, Marlton, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Jonqueyres, Bordeaux Superieur ($11.99)
This blend of Merlot (80%) and Cabernet (20%) has an opaque,
deep ruby color and long legs. The nose is forward, with crisp,
green bell-pepper aromas. Medium bodied and dry, it has a
silky mouth feel and offers delicious cherry and cassis flavors
complemented by mineral notes. It’s well structured, with
good concentration, acidity, and supple tannins. This wine
has a certain degree of complexity to it, and its flavors
linger. There’s plenty of length, and it finishes with cherry
and some black-pepper notes. It was very good with the steak.
Imported by Fedway Imports Co., South Kearny, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Pierrail, Bordeaux Superieur ($11.99)
Deep, opaque ruby in color, this wine has good
legs and a pretty, forward, complex nose of vanilla
and crème brulee, along with some almond and spice
notes. Medium bodied and dry, this wine has great
structure, with good fruit concentration, adequate
acidity, and soft tannins. On the palate, it delivers
lingering ripe-cherry and tobacco flavors with a whisper
of minerals. There’s plenty of length to the cedar,
cigar-box finish. It was very good with the steaks,
and the acidity cut right through the fat. Another
star of this tasting. Imported by Regal Wine Imports,
Marlton, NJ. |
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2000
Chateau du Haut Carmail Cru Bourgeois, Haut Medoc
($12.99)
Deep opaque ruby in color, this wine has long,
lush legs and a nose of green bell pepper and slate.
Light bodied, it offers floral flavors of violets
and roses. There’s not much depth to this wine, which
one taster likened to a “shooting star” because of
its ephemeral, yet pleasant, flavors. The finish is
short and dry. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections,
Ltd. New York, NY. |
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2000
Chateau de Pitray, Cotes de Castillon ($9.99)
This blend of Merlot (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%),
and Malbec (10%) is ruby in color with good legs. It has a
pretty, subtle nose of violets, vanilla, and some cedar. Light
to medium bodied, it has very soft tannins and sweet cherry
flavors complemented by some chocolate notes. The flavors
linger, and the finish is nice and dry. A great sipping wine.
Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections, Ltd. New York, NY. |
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2000
Chateau Haut-Guiraud, Cotes de Bourg ($11.99)
Purple in color, this wine has loads of legs. The nose
is all licorice and green bell pepper. Medium to full bodied,
it’s nicely structured, with good acidity and very soft tannins.
On the palate, it offers cedar, vanilla, and cassis, with
undercurrents of slate and licorice. It finishes a bit too
abruptly. Imported by Wine Source Selections, South Kearny,
NJ. |
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2000
Chateau Rozier, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru ($19.99)
Deep dark purple to ruby in color, this wine has nice
legs and a seductively attractive nose of cherry and beef
complemented by minerals. Medium to full bodied, this wine
is beautifully structured, with plenty of concentrated fruit,
good acidity, and supple tannins. It’s packed with sweet,
red-cherry and cassis flavors along with some cigar-box notes.
“Gullpable,” commented one taster. The wine has good length
and finishes nicely with cedar notes. It was outstanding with
the food and seemed to sauce the steak. Definitely another
star of this tasting. Imported by Specialty Wine Merchants,
Oradell, NJ. |
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