And the Award Goes To. . .

In a few weeks, many of us will tune into the Academy Awards show. We'll wait, with some anticipation, albeit less than the nominees', as the presenters struggle to open those oversized envelopes and pause, dramatically of course, before they announce the winner.

Whenever one of our own choices has been passed over, we generally attribute it to the winner's having had a better studio-marketing campaign or sometimes even to two nominees from the same film canceling each other out. And, more often than not, we're right.

Similar reasons might be used to explain why one of Italy's foremost wine regions has been overlooked by consumers, at least outside of Europe, and not been awarded the close attention it deserves. So without further ado, let me introduce the star of this month's feature: Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Don't be too surprised if you've never heard of this region. Not too many people have. But recently, there's been an Italian effort to bring attention from abroad to this area's truly delectable wines. Possibly using Tuscany's successful "Super Tuscan" advertising campaign, which promoted that region's ultra-premium, iconoclastic reds as a model, Friuli-Venezia Giulia producers began using the term "Super Whites" in promoting their white wines. One can only hope that a similar strategy might be employed to make their red wines more accessible to the foreign consumer. Moreover, as with multiple award nominees from one film, there's such a wide range of varietal bottlings, as well as some rather esoteric blends, from this small region's eight classified wine zones, or DOCs, that wine shoppers, as well as critics, can feel overwhelmed.

Located in the northeast of Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is bordered by Austria on the north and Slovenia on the east. On average, it produces over 26 million gallons of wine per year. While this represents only 2.5% of Italy's total production, it's remarkable that over 50% of it merits the prestigious DOC classification.

Although wine has been produced here for centuries, it was not until the 1960s that it began to attain prominence. It was about this time when one of the pioneers in Friulian wine making, Mario Schiopetto, introduced German wine-making techniques and practices like temperature control. The result, simply put, was clean fresh wine that celebrated the fruit.

Despite covering a relatively small area, Friuli-Venezia Giulia comprises eight classified zones or DOCs. The most expansive is Grave del Friuli, a flat plain of gravely soil and sand. It's the region's largest producer, but its wines are more noteworthy for good value than for quality.

For high quality wines, one must look to the hilly regions of Collio (actually Collio Goriziano) and the Colli Orientali del Friuli. These two rival zones produce some of Friuli-Venezia Giulia's greatest and most expensive wines.

Collio is known mostly for its whites, which represent 85% of its production. These include Tocai Friulano, followed by Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, and Chardonnay. Its red wines, based on Cabernet and Merlot, are more similar to the reds of France's Loire Valley. Most critics agree that Collio's best red is Merlot. "Elegance" and "aroma" are terms often used to described this area's wines.

The Colli Orientali is Friuli-Venezia Giulia's second largest zone. As in Collio, the soil here is calcareous marl and sandstone, but words like "strength" and "depth" better characterize this area's wines. Tocai Friulano is the leading white, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, Verduzzo, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Blanc. However, in addition to superlative whites, the Colli Orientali also produces some of the area's most age-worthy reds. In addition to the French Cabernet and Merlot, there's also the native Refosco, Scioppettino, and Pignolo. Since the 1980s, wood has also been employed here not only to produce fuller bodied reds but also to enhance its Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. Finally, the region is also known for producing some of Friuli-Venezia Giulia's finest dessert wines like Picolit and Ramondolo.

The next region with a reputation for quality is Isonzo. Like Grave, it's a plain formed by the Isonzo river. Production includes Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Blanc for whites and Merlot and Cabernet, with an emphasis on Cabernet Franc. Although quality can be inconsistent here, it has been improving due largely to the efforts of young growers known as the "Isonzo boys," whose ranks include producers Edi Kante and Gianfranco Gallo.

The remaining regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia are Annia, Aquileia, Carso, Latisana, and Lison-Pramaggiore.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia is known for producing an almost bafflingly wide range of varietal wines including native, as well as French and German, grapes. Among whites, one can find delicious Chardonnays that reflect a judicious use of oak in production and that tend to be more light bodied and delicate than New World examples. Sauvignon Blanc in this region is dry, full bodied, and has a distinctive herbal nose. More often than not it is produced in steel, although some makers will occasionally use a little wood. Pinot Grigio here is deeper in color than that produced elsewhere in Italy and generally has more body. Tocai Friulano is possibly the most famous native varietal and has a fruity nose reminiscent of peach, with nuances of nuts and herbs. Another native white is Ribolla Gialla. Although not very well known outside of Europe, this wine is floral and elegant and packed with crisp acidity. Two other white varietals serve as the source for Friuli-Venezia Giulia's finest dessert wines, Picolit and Ramondolo. Other white varietals include: Malvasia Istriana, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Bianco, Prosecco, Riesling Italico, Riesling Renano, Scioglin, Tramminer Aromatico, Ucelut, Verduzzo, and Vitovska.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia also has a wealth of red varieties. Merlot is considered by some to be the region's most typical red. There's also Cabernet Franc, which some believe is closer to Carmenere. This wine typically has an herbaceous nose, with plums and black fruit on the palate. Another French grape grown here is Cabernet Sauvignon, which one can find bottled not only as a varietal, but also as part of a blend. Among native varietals are Refosco dal Peduncolo Nero and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. The latter can yield a dense, full-bodied wine with black fruit flavors and a touch of bitterness. There's also the robust Refosco di San Dorligo. Similar to these grapes is Terrano. A lighter, more approachable red is Schioppettino. Other reds include Forgiarin, Franconi, Molinara, Moscata Rosa, Piculit-neri, Pignolo, Pinot Nero, Tazzelenghe.

Among the classified blends are Collio Bianco, which is the most traditional white blend and includes Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla, and Tocai. In addition, there are some modern blends that have taken on a cult-like status, and price tag, like Livio Felluga's Terre Alte. For red blends, there are Collio Rosso, made from Merlot and either, or both, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon along with other red grapes, and Collio Cabernet, a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

One can also find a number of rosé blends: Rosato di Aquileia, Rosato di Grave del Friuli, and Rosato di Latisana.

Leading producers to look for, listed in alphabetical order, are: Ascevi, Marina Danieli, Livio Felluga, Marco Felluga, Walter Filiputti, Josko Gravener, Silvio Jermann, Enzo Pontori, Vittorio Puiatti, Ruzziz Suerpiore, Mario Schiopetto, Vie de Romans, and Villa Russiz.

As you can see, there's a lot going on in this small region. After all, there's high regard and strong demand for these wines, especially the whites, in Italy and Germany. Here in the States, however, we're just beginning to see these wines gain some popularity, thanks in part to renewed marketing efforts and perhaps because Americans seem to be looking for alternatives to oaky Chardonnays. Who knows, maybe before too long, we'll see one of these wines atop The Wine Spectator's "100 Best" list accompanied by a sidebar story with the headline "Oooh, Friulano."

To learn more about the wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, I strongly recommend Fred Plotkin's, La Terra Fortunata: The Splendid Food and Wine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. It's brilliantly written, infused with both scholarship and passion. On the web, I highly suggest visiting the Italian site Movimento Turismo del Vino, Friuli-Venzia Giulia, which was the source of our map. The site has an interactive version of this map that displays detailed information on each DOC.

Note that several wines in this tasting are far beyond TableWine's $20 price point. We've included them in our notes only to provide our readers with a more comprehensive view of this dynamic wine region. You might keep them in mind, however, as special-occasion bottles.

As is our custom, we tasted the wines first on their own and then accompanied by a simple meal of roast chicken, peas, and couscous, as well as with an assortment of cheeses.

1999 Marina Danieli, "Vigna delle Letizie" Tocai Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC ($9.99)
Pale gold in color, this wine has a pretty, herbaceous nose with hints of peach. On the palate, it's dry and medium to full bodied. With an unctuous mouthfeel, it delivers tart flavors of dry peaches and nuts accompanied by some citrus notes. The flavors linger. The wine has good structure, with adequate acidity for food, and a long finish with peach notes. It was very good with the food and maintained its character. Imported by Giorgio Grai Signature Selections, South Kearny, NJ.

2000 Mario Schiopetto, Tocai Friulano, Collio DOC ($34.00)
Light gold to pale straw in color, this wine has a huge nose that leaps from the glass. There are aromas of nuts and flowers with some hints of honey. It's medium bodied amd has a good mouthfeel. Nicely structured, with crisp acidity, it delivers lingering juicy-lemon flavors complemented by peach notes. It has a long citrus finish. This wine enhanced the food like a seasoning with its lemon flavors. Imported by Winebow Inc., New York, NY.

2000 Ascevi, Ribolla Gialla, Collio DOC ($16.00)
Light gold in color, this wine has an attractive creamy nose with crème brulée notes. There are also some secondary aromas of cloves and nectarines. Medium bodied, it has good acidity. Quite dry, it offers tart flavors like citrus pith together with some toast notes. It seems to cling to the palate. The finish is attractive and long, with tangerine tartness and cream. It supplemented our simple roast chicken, adding body to it. Definitely a star of this tasting. Imported by Niccolo Selections, Manhasset, NY.

2000 Walter Filiputti, Ribolla Gialla, Colli Orientali del Friuli ($24.00)
Very pale straw in color, almost translucent, this wine has a forward nose of nuts and minerals. It's light to medium bodied and has good acidity. On the palate, it's elegant, delivering creamy flavors with tart citrus nuances. The flavors linger, and the finish is long, tart, and dry, with nut notes reminiscent of the wine's initial aromas. With the meal, it seemed to cleanse the palate. "It steps aside for the food," remarked one taster. Imported by Vias Imports, New York, NY.

2000 Marina Danieli, Pinot Bianco, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC ($9.99)
Pale straw in color, this wine has a forward nose of almonds, with nuances of yeast. Light to medium bodied, it's packed with good, crisp acidity and rich almond flavors. There are some citrus notes as well. The flavors linger. Well structured, this wine has an unctuous finish with tart and buttery notes. It went well with the food, preferring to play a supporting role. Another star of this tasting and a fine value. Imported by Giorgio Grai Signature Selections, South Kearny, NJ.

2000 Ascevi, Sauvignon, Collio DOC ($18.00)
This wine has a light gold color. Its nose is huge and herbaceous or grassy, with delicate spice notes. There's a certain dampness on the nose. Medium to full bodied, it offers loads of dry, gooseberry flavors that alternate between dry and sweet. "This is not a shy white," quipped one taster. It has a lasting finish with bitter-almond notes. It seemed to serve as a sauce for the chicken but would have been better with a roasted loin of pork.
Imported by Niccolo Selections, Manhasset, NY.

2000 Vicentini Orgnani, "Braide Cjasse" Chardonnay, Grave del Friuli DOC ($14.00)
Pale gold in color, this wine has a delicate, perfumy nose with aromas of butter and honeysuckle, perhaps even some lily. On the palate, it's medium bodied, rich, and dry, with a certain complexity of flavor. Its tartness is complemented by mineral and musk flavors. It also has a nice mouthfeel and a dry, mineral finish that keeps the initial honeysuckle aromas. I doubt that this wine has seen any oak. This wine supported the food nicely. Another star of this tasting. Imported by Viva Vino Import Corp., Eddystone, PA.

1999 Borgo Conventi, Riesling Italico, Collio ($15.00)
Light gold in color, this wine has a distinctive nose of caramel with citrus underpinnings. Light and delicate on the palate, it delivers lacy caramel flavors that end with a certain tartness. The flavors linger. It has an interesting dry finish, with a hint of brown butter or burnt sugar. This wine was definitely too big for our simple chicken and would be far better with pork. Imported by O.F.S. Imports, Santa Rosa, CA.

1999 Venica, Tre Vignis, Collio DOC ($20.00)
This blend of Tocai, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon is pale gold in color. It has a forward nose of peach and caramel with a certain sweetness. Light and delicate on the palate, it initially delivers creamy flavors that give way to tart citrus and peach notes. The mouthfeel is nice and silky. The wine finishes well with lasting peach flavors. It was very good with the food. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY.

1999 Walter Filiputti, Poiesis, Colli Orientali del Friuli ($31.00)
This "poetic" blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco (the name derives from the Greek word for "create") is pale straw in color. The nose is distinctive, with vanilla and almonds. The almond aromas keep developing. Medium bodied, this wine is elegant on the palate and has an oily, nut-like character. It's well structured with good acidity and delivers tart peach flavors with some almond notes as well. The finish is dry with hints of spice. It was very good with the food. Imported by Vias Imports, New York, NY.

1998 Livio Felluga, Terre Alte, Colli Orientali del Friuli ($40.00)
One of the most famous wines of this region, this blend of Tocai Friulano, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc is pale straw in color. It has a good full nose of minerals and herbs. Medium to full bodied, the wine has an unctuous mouthfeel, with deep layers of flavor that range from nectarine to minerals to bitter almond. A complex white. There's also a hint of petillance. The tart, mineral finish lingers. As one taster commented, "A white with all the complexity of a red." It was elegant with the food. "Makes a statement," said another taster with a mouthful of cheese. Imported by Cliquot, Inc., New York, NY.

1997 Vicentini Orgnani, "Braide Cjasse" Merlot, Grave del Friuli DOC ($16.00)
Deep ruby in color, this wine has long, delicate legs. The nose is vegetal and grapey with a touch of smoke. "Makes you want to chew," quipped one taster. On the palate, it's medium bodied, with fresh fruit and tart flavors reminiscent of wild cherry that eventually yield to mushrooms and truffles. The flavors are long lasting. This wine is well structured with supple tannins and good acidity. It has a good finish with sour-plum notes. It was good with the food, especially with the cheese. A star of this tasting. Imported by Viva Vino Import Corp., Eddystone, PA.

1996 Ronchi de Cialla, Ciallarosso, Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC ($21.00)
This blend of native Refosco and Schioppettino is deep garnet in color with gem-like clarity. It has nice legs. The nose is big and forward with cherry and spice aromas; there's fresh black pepper as well. Medium to full bodied, this wine is nicely structured with soft, supple tannins and good acidity. Its flavors are predominantly spice and wild cherry. The long finish starts with cherry but then wafts pepper, pepper, pepper. It lent seasoning to the chicken and went nicely with the cheese. Imported by Domaine Select Wine estates, New York, NY.

1999 Conti Formenti, Cabernet Franc, Collio DOC ($15.00)
Deep garnet in color, this wine has a forward nose with layers of green bell-pepper. Nicely structured with soft, supple tannins, it's light bodied and dry with delicate bell-pepper flavors and hints of spice. It has a long finish of tart berries and pepper. Good with the food, it maintained its character. Imported by Frederick Wildman, New York, NY.

If you want to learn more about these wines, and live in New York or close by, you should know that until April 5, 2002 Friulian wines and food are being celebrated at many events as part of Friuli New York. The link will take you to the schedule.

I would also like to thank Italian wine expert Charles Scicolone of Vino Italian Wine and Spirits, in New York City, for helping me select a large number of the wines reviewed here.

TableWine is a personal website and does not sell any wine. However, many of the wines we review are purchased from our local wine merchants, Wine & Spirit World in Ho-Ho-Kus, NJ and The Wine Seller in Ridgewood, NJ. The Wine & Spirit World website may help you locate a good number of our selections. You might also use the database of quality wine merchants at Wine Searcher.com to help find wines that are difficult to locate. Finally, if your local wine store does not carry a wine that you've read about here, don't hesitate to ask them to order a bottle or two for you. For imported wines, you may need to supply them with the name of the importer or distributor.

If you have any suggestions for future tastings, drop us a line at the address below.