Green Wines and Ham

Okay, just kidding, but the title did possibly get your attention—even if you’re not a fan of Dr. Seuss’s Green Eggs and Ham. The children’s story came to mind because, like Sam-I-am’s friend, I did not like ham—with or without the eggs. Indeed, I can count on one hand, well maybe two, the number of times I’ve eaten one. But since a baked ham will be the main course at many traditional Christmas and New Year’s dinners, I thought it might be a good idea to find wines that would go well with it.

When selecting wines for baked ham, keep in mind the combination of its salt cure and  sweet glaze. Because of the salt, you’ll want to avoid wines that are too tannic since they’ll wind up tasting quite bitter. Likewise, because of the sweet, you’ll want to avoid wines that are overly dry reds since the wine’s fruit will be overwhelmed by the sugar in the glaze. Nevertheless, that still leaves you with a lot of  choices—in both reds and whites.

To highlight the flavors of the ham, look for dry whites with good acidity that will cut through the ham’s saltiness and perhaps even enhance the sweetness of the glaze. There are many options: a dry Alsatian Riesling, a French Chablis, a dry Vouvray, an Italian Orvieto or bubbly Prosecco would all work well.

To complement the glaze and serve as a counterpoint to the ham’s salt, look for sweeter whites and fruitier reds. A semi-sweet Vouvray, an Alsatian Gewürztraminer, a high quality Italian Soave, or a Costieres de Nimes would be great choices for white wine lovers. Young fruity reds, low in tannin with good acidity, like an Italian Barbera D’Alba, a Cotes du Rhone, as well as a wide variety of reds from the Languedoc-Roussillon based on Syrah and Grenache would be outstanding red alternatives. An elegant Zinfandel with gobs of fruit or a juicy Pinot Noir are also wonderful matches. In fact, either might almost be regarded as a “fruit sauce” for the ham.

Can’t choose between reds and whites? Then go for a classic rosé like a Tavel from the Rhone or a California Vin Gris. Both these wines are on the dry side and would harmonize with the ham and let the glaze speak for itself.

So there you go. There are plenty of wine varieties from which to choose. The deciding factor is your own taste. What flavors do you like: berries and plums or apricots and citrus? That’s what really counts. If you’re entertaining, why not have both a red and white on hand and let your guests do the decision making.

In any event, I know that after doing the tasting for this feature, I’ve changed my mind about ham:

Say!
I like green eggs [or great wines] and ham!
I do!! I like them, Sam-I-am!
And I would eat them in a boat!
And I would eat them with a goat...
And I will eat them in the rain.
And in the dark. And on a train.
And in a car. And in a tree.
They are so good so good you see!
So I will eat them in a box.
And I will eat them with a fox.
And I will eat them in a house.
And I will eat them with a mouse.
And I will eat them here and there.
Say! I will eat them ANYWHERE!
I do so like green eggs and ham!
Thank you!
Thank you, Sam-I-am

Enjoy the holidays.

As is our custom, we first tasted these wines by themselves and then with food. For our menu, we served a glazed baked ham with green beans, carrots, and sautéed potatoes. The wines are reviewed in the order in which they were tasted.

Non-vintage Zardetto, Prosecco Brut, Veneto ($8.99)

Very pale with tinges of green, this Italian sparkler has small bubbles and a good mousse. The nose is simply lemon citrus. “Like lemon chiffon,” remarked one taster. On the palate, it’s semi-dry with fresh green-apple flavors and hints of citrus. The flavors are fleeting but refreshing and the finish is nice. It was very good with the ham. This is a wine you can greet your guests with and drink through the entire meal. An excellent value. Imported by Winebow, New York, NY.

2000 Anselmi, San Vincenzo, Veneto Bianco IGT ($9.99)

This Italian Soave is pale gold in color. It has an intriguing crème brulée nose with some hints of apricot and butter. Quite forward on the palate, with crisp acidity, it has an unctuous mouthfeel and delivers dry lemon zest and buttery flavors that linger. It finishes well and interestingly with butter-rum. This wine was very good with the ham and complemented the meat flavors. Definitely one of the stars of this tasting. Imported by Winebow, New York, NY.

2000 Sauvion, Vouvray ($9.99)

Pale, almost clear, in color this Chenin Blanc from the Loire has a complex nose of Muscat, peach, and minerals. On the palate, it’s off-dry and packed with luscious flavors of peach that yield to citrus. It has a nice mouthfeel and the flavors linger. The finish is quite good with hints of lemon. The wine went well with the ham and was like a secondary glaze. Imported by W.J. Deutsch and Sons Ltd., Harrison, NY.

1999 Martin Schaetzel, Riesling, Alsace ($14.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has a forward mineral and hay nose with hints of dried figs. “Like a roll in the hay,” quipped one taster. Light to medium bodied, it delivers mineral and fig flavors that evolve into tart pineapple. The flavors are expansive and lingering and complemented by good acidity. The wine has a good finish with pineapple notes. It was very good with the ham and complemented its saltiness. Imported by Vinifrance Imports, Arlington, VA.

2000 Martin Schaetzel, Gewürztraminer, Alsace ($17.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a textbook Gewürztraminer nose of lichee and rock candy that’s beautiful. The wine is well structured. On the palate, it has plenty of body and an unctuous mouthfeel with lingering spice and lichee flavors. The finish is long and spicy. A classic. This wine was like a condiment for the ham. Another star of this tasting. Imported by Vinifrance Imports, Arlington, VA.

2000 Chateau de Nages, Costieres de Nimes ($9.99)

This blend of Grenache Blanc (60%) and Rousanne (40%) from the Languedoc in the Southwest of France is pale straw in color. It has a beautiful nose with butter, lemon, and some herbaceousness. Light bodied, it delivers long lasting flavors of lemon and peach with good acidity. This is a delicate tasting wine with plenty of character. The finish is good with lemons and peach. This was one wine that was complemented by the ham. Just luscious. Imported by Wine Source Selections, South Kearny, NJ.

2000 Les Lauzeraies, Tavel ($11.99)

Ruby orange in color, this rosé has a delicate nose of peach and grapefruit citrus. On the palate, it’s light to medium bodied and dry. It has a nice mouthfeel and delivers tart grapefruit and peach flavors. The strawberry finish is long lasting. It provided a nice complement to the ham. Imported by Monsieur Touton, New York, NY.

1999 Tomaso Gianolio, Barbera d’Alba DOC ($9.99)

Burnt ruby in color, this wine has long legs and an alluring nose of blackberry, plums, and subtle hints of sweetness. Light to medium bodied, this wine is well structured with very soft tannins, good acidity, and plenty of fruit. It delivers sweet plum and leather flavors and has a long leather finish. It was excellent with the ham, which seemed to supplement its body. A star of this tasting. Imported by Signature Selections, South Kearny, NJ.

2000 Georges Duboeuf, Chateau des Deduits Fleurie ($11.99)

This cru Beaujolais from the much touted 2000 vintage is deep ruby in color and has good legs. The nose is delicious strawberry jam and raspberry. “Just put it on some toast,” said one member of our group. Light to medium bodied, it’s packed with strawberry and chalk flavors. It’s nicely structured with soft tannins and good acidity. It has a warm mouthfeel and a good finish that’s consistent with the initial flavors. One taster thought it was too forward with the ham, another rather bright, but most found it to be quite a good match. Imported by W.J. Deutsch and Sons Ltd., Harrison, NY.

1999 Domaine Clavel, Les Garrigues, Coteaux du Languedoc ($11.99)

Deep ruby in color, this blend of Syrah and Grenache Noir has gorgeous legs and an attractive nose of lavender, cherry, and earth. Medium to full bodied, its flavors suggest chocolate cherry cordials with hints of tar. The flavors linger and the mid-palate is wild cherry. It has a good long finish, with chalk and minerals. This wine stood up well to the ham and was like a raisin sauce for it. Imported by Jeffrey M. Davies, South Kearny, NJ.

2000 Bernard Baudry, Les Granges, Chinon ($14.99)

Deep garnet in color, this Cabernet Franc based wine from the Loire has long legs and a green bell-pepper nose with cherry nuances. Light to medium bodied, it delivers dry chalk and sweet cherry flavors that one taster found reminiscent of Ludens cough drops. This wine is well structured with supple tannins and good fruit. The finish is very dry with spice notes. It was absolutely wonderful with the ham. One more star of this tasting. Imported by LDM Wines Inc., New York, NY.

2000 Estancia, Pinnacles Pinot Noir, Monterey ($15.99)

Ruby in color, this wine has great legs and a beautiful nose of fresh raspberry and some earth. The mouthfeel is silky. Medium to full bodied, this wine is well structured and has plenty of raspberry flavors with a touch of cinnamon spice. The flavors linger on the tongue. A luscious wine with a big finish of tart raspberry and spice. Very good with the ham.

If you'll be serving turkey for the holidays, be sure to check out our past features that suggest good wine matches for the bird: Waltzing with Whites and Mission Impossible: Red Wine for Thanksgiving

If you have any suggestions for future tastings, drop us a line at the address below.

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