Where Have All The Tannins Gone?

For years, I avoided Spanish wines. As a student in the late '60s, I would occasionally buy one or two only because they were relatively inexpensive and I was just beginning to learn about wine. Unfortunately, I never found one I liked. Later, as a graduate student in the '70s, I tried them again, but still did not come across any that I actually enjoyed. Spanish wines, I thought, were just too oaky and tannic and dried my mouth out. In fact, the mere mention of them would make me pucker. In the mid '80s, at a small dinner party, I was served a superlative, tasty red that, to my surprise, turned out to be a Rioja. But somehow, I never got around to buying any. First impressions die hard.

About five years ago, when I began publishing TableWine and started looking for affordable, everyday wines that did not sacrifice quality for price, I came across a bottle from one of Spain's largest producers, Miguel Torres. It was a 1995 Sangre de Toro from Penedes. I thought it was quite good, and went on to review other dependable wines from this firm.

Nevertheless, it wasn't until 1999, when a local merchant recommended a 1998 Borsao, Campo de Borja, for a whopping $4.99, that my eyes were opened to truly superb, yet unbelievably inexpensive, Spanish wines. Not long after, when shopping for one of our recent monthly features, Recessionary Reds, I discovered another bottle, a 1998 Dominio de Eguren, Protocolo, Vino de la Tierra de Manchuela for $5.99. It ended up being one of the stars of our tasting.

When I realized that both wines were imported by the same company, Tempranillo, Incorporated, located in Mamaroneck, New York, I made a point of contacting them to see what other wines they had in their portfolio. Jose Ramon (Joe) Gude, of Tempranillo, graciously invited me to visit his warehouse to taste a selection of his wines. While there, I was impressed by the attention his company devotes to maintaining the quality of their wines through temperature control, from the docks to the warehouse to the delivery at retailers.

On that same visit, I sat with Joe and tasted a diverse selection of wines. After several hours and more than a dozen bottles, I was amazed at the consistency in quality and the breadth of selection in wines under $20. And for those willing to pay more, Tempranillo imports some of the top-tier Spanish wines, including Vega de Toro's Numanthia, Muga's Riojas, Allende's Aurus, and Abadia Retuerta's Pago Negralada to name just a few.

After several requests from readers for a feature on Spanish wines, I decided to contact Joe and see if he would provide me with some samples from Tempranillo's portfolio. After all, a trusted importer's name on a bottle can often be an indication of high quality. Without hesitating, he agreed but would not accept any payment. As we went through his warehouse, there seemed to be no end to what was available at our under $20 price point. I had to limit him to 12 bottles, which is the most our tasting panel can handle in an evening. The week before our monthly tasting, I began to wonder if the rest of the panel would share my opinion of these wines. I am happy to report that all of the bottles showed beautifully, both by themselves and with our meal.

But what about the tannins? Well, after having tasted dozens of Spanish wines in the past year or so, from recent vintages (1996 through 2000), I find that the tannins are still there. It appears, however, that, these days, the wines are more carefully structured, with tannin and fruit in proper balance. The oak, which more often than not is American in origin, appears to be used more judiciously than in the past. Like the rest of Europe, Spain has devoted considerable resources to improving the quality of their wines and to making them more appealing to a wider audience. Yet despite a certain degree of internationalization in style and the incorporation of imported varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, there's still plenty of Spanish character.

A Spanish Wine Primer

Although Spain has more acres under vines than any country in the world, the country's extreme climactic conditions make for terribly low average yields. The diversity in climate and altitude from the torrid south to the cool north is definitely reflected in the wines.

Most experts would agree that Spain's finer wines come from its more northern regions like Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorato. Wines from the southern regions often tend to be high in alcohol and low in acidity.

Government legislation, along with private investment, has played an important role in reviving and maintaining the quality of Spanish wines. There are currently four levels of wine quality that are quite similar to those of France and Italy:

Spain's most widely used varietals include:

Airen - a white grape, found mostly in central Spain, is mostly used for brandy but also for dry whites.

Garnacha - the equivalent of French Grenache, a red grape, found mostly in the north, is used for reds and rosés.

Bobal - also known as Monastrell, the equivalent of the French Mourvedre, a red grape, is used for reds high in alcohol and sometimes for dry rosés.

Tempranillo - sometimes referred to as Tinto Fino, a red grape, is found in most of Spain's best reds.

Albarino - a white grape, found mostly in Galicia in the north east of Spain, is used for dry, flavorful whites.

Verdejo - a white grape, found mostly in Rueda, produces nutty whites and is sometimes blended with Sauvignon Blanc.

Currently, there are approximately 50 DOs in Spain. Some of the major ones are listed below:

Rioja- Located in the north east, it produces reds from a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha that are aged mostly in American oak for a number of years. Rioja may be the most famous Spanish appellation. Its wines gained a great deal of popularity in the '70s and early '80s because they were both flavorful and approachable. However, in the late '80s they lost some ground as they became more expensive and relatively dull when compared to fuller bodied wines like Cabernet Sauvignon. Recently, however, Rioja has made a comeback, with the best wines coming from the north (Rioja Alta) and Alavesa.

Ribera del Duero - Also located in the north east, its wines tend to be fuller bodied and deeper than Rioja's. Climactic conditions make for more deeply colored and flavorful wines made chiefly from Tempranillo. Cabernet Sauvignon is also being used. Vega Sicilia, one of Spain's most famous, and expensive, reds comes from this region.

Navarra - Located in the north east, this region is known for producing quality wines at good prices. Although it was recognized mostly for Garnacha-based reds and dry rosés, there has recently been an increased focus on Tempranillo as well as on international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay.

Penedes - Found in Catalonia, this is a relatively large appellation and known principally for Spain's sparkling white, Cava. Tempranillo is a major source for its red wine. However, one of the region's largest and best known producers, Miguel Torres, is better known for blended wines that incorporate international varieties. Some believe the white wines from this region have more going for them than do the reds.

Priorato - Many experts feel that this is one of Spain's most exciting regions. There's been a considerable amount of investment in this area, which produces some full-bodied, concentrated reds, with mineral notes, made from Garnacha and Carinena, supplemented with international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah.

Somontano - Found in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this is a small region that has begun to plant a lot of foreign varieties and is making wines in an international style.

Costers del Segre - Also in the north east, it is known primarily for its largest producer, Raimat. As in Somontano, international varieties are a major focus.

Rias Baixas - This appellation is located on Spain's north west coast in Galicia. It has earned a reputation for tasty, fragrant white wines made from the native Albarino.

Ribeiro - Another, and some say the most prestigious, Galician producer of whites that are based on the native varietals Treixadura and Torrontes.

Rudea - This is an exciting region that produces great whites from native, nutty Verdejo. Sauvignon Blanc is now being planted and used with considerable success.

Alicante - Located in the south east, this region produces both whites and reds. The dry whites are based on Muscat and the powerful reds on Monastrell.

Valdepenas - Located in Spain's La Mancha region, where yields are low, this region is known primarily for well priced reds based on Tempranillo (a.k.a. Cencibel). Rosés and whites are also being made in a more international style.

Most recent vintages are quite good with 1994 and 1995 among the best. I would avoid, however, the 1998 wines from Penedes.

Although Spanish wine labels are pretty straightforward and easy to read, here is a list of terms that might come in helpful.

For this month's tasting, we prepared a Cordero Estofado, a lamb stew that derives a lot of its flavor from vinegar and a whole head of garlic. As is our custom, we tasted each of the wines before eating and then later with the meal. The wines are listed in the order in which they were tasted.

2000 Vina Mein, Vin Blanc, Ribeiro ($12.99)
This white blend of Treixadura (75%), Godello (15%), and other native varietals is pale straw in color. It has a pretty nose of straw, lemon citrus, and just a hint of butter. Light bodied, it has good acidity and balance and delivers long lasting, lemon-citrus flavors with some buttery notes. It has a pleasant lemon-zest finish. It was very good with the green beans that accompanied the meal. One of the stars of this tasting.

2000 Vega Sindoa, Viura-Chardonnay, Navarra ($5.99) This new style blend of Viura (75%) and Chardonnay (25%) is pale straw in color. The nose is big, with fennel, Muscat, and some rock candy. Medium bodied, it's dry and full flavored with oak, minerals, and pineapple. It has a nice, dry toasty finish with concentrated grapefruit notes that linger. It also has plenty of good acidity for dining. An excellent value. Would be very good with roast chicken or grilled fish.

2000 Martivilli, Verdejo, Rueda ($8.99) Very pale, almost clear, in color, this wine has a bright lemon nose with some herbs and peach. Well structured, with very good acidity, it has a pleasant, satiny mouthfeel. Dry and medium bodied, it delivers grapefruit, toast, and lemon citrus flavors. It also has a good finish, with grapefruit and herb notes. "A lovely wine," remarked one taster. Went well with the vegetables.

2000 Muga, White Barrel Fermented, Rioja ($10.99)
This blend of Viura (90%) and Malvasia (10%) is very pale straw in color. It has a huge nose (for a white, one of the biggest I've ever encountered) of oak, with hints of nectarine and orange blossom. Light to medium bodied, it's dry and packed with bitter-almond and crème-brulée flavors that last. There are hints of lemon zest as well. The wine has a good oaky finish. Although not everyone's favorite, we all agreed it should be served with fatty foods to be fully appreciated. Maybe a blue fish or a roast loin of pork.

1998 Vega Sindoa, Red Wine, Navarra ($5.99)
Opaque ruby in color, with loads of legs, this blend of Tempranillo (70%) and Merlot (30%) has a nose of burnt sugar, strawberry jam, and some earth that leaps from the glass. There's also a certain degree of warmth to the nose. Light to medium bodied, it's quite dry and delivers spice and smoke flavors with some chalk and plum notes. It's well structured with supple tannins. The flavors linger and the finish is good with some hints of spice. This wine went well with the meal.

1998 Vega Sindoa, Cabernet Sauvignon-Tempranillo, Navarra ($7.99)
A modern blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Tempranillo (40%), this wine has a deep garnet color and sheeting legs. The nose is big, with green bell pepper, burnt sugar, and jammy plum. There are also nuances of oak and leather. Medium bodied and dry, it delivers lingering red-cherry and tobacco flavors encased in firm tannins. Fruit and tannins are nicely balanced. It has a good finish with notes of spice and plums. Quite good with the lamb, which seemed to soften the tannins.

1998 Bodegas Balcona, Partal, Crianza, Bullas ($19.99)
This wine from a small appellation in the south east of Spain is a blend of Monastrell (60%) and Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Deep ruby in color, with nice full legs, it has an alluring nose of sour cherry, tobacco, cigar box, and plum. Medium to full bodied, it delivers lots of currant, cocoa, and cedar flavors. It's dry and beautifully structured with supple tannins. The flavors linger, with hints of crushed black pepper. It has a long finish with plum and black-pepper notes. This wine was outstanding with the lamb, supporting the meat's flavors and cutting through its fat. Definitely, a star of this tasting.

2000 Casa Castillo, Monastrell, Jumilla ($8.99)
This blend of Monastrell (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) is from central southern Spain. Opaque and deep ruby in color, it has a nose of jammy fruit, strawberry and cherry, with some cedar notes. Medium bodied, it's very dry and could benefit from some bottle age. Well structured, it delivers monochromatic, dry cherry flavors. It also has a long, dry spicy finish. This wine complemented the lamb with a distinctive raisin sweetness. A very good value; but give it some more time before drinking.

1998 Bodegas Ramirez, Ramirez de la Piscina, Crianza ($12.99)
Light garnet in color, with good legs, this wine has a delicate, pretty nose of cherry and raspberry with some green bell-pepper and cedar notes. There's also a hint of cinnamon. Light to medium bodied, it's dry and delivers stewed-prune flavors that linger on the palate. It has a velvety mouthfeel and a good finish with spice. A nicely structured wine. It went well with the lamb.

1999 Sierra Cantabria, Rioja ($8.99)
This wine has a garnet color and good legs. The nose is bright and forward, with raspberry and some wet slate. (One taster likened the nose to a red candy apple.) Light bodied and dry, it coats the palate with tart raspberry flavors that seem to linger. It has good structure and the tannins are very soft. The wine has an adequate finish, with hints of raspberry and spice. This is a very good value. It was lovely with the food.

1999 Sierra Cantabria, Cuvee Especial Rioja ($16.99)
Medium ruby in color, this wine has long, thick legs and a delicate peppery, cherry nose, with some underpinnings of plum. Light to medium bodied, it's well balanced with soft, supple tannins. It's elegant on the palate and delivers cherry and white-pepper flavors that linger. It has a nice finish with dry cherry and oak notes. An exemplary use of oak throughout. It was very good with the lamb.

1998 Bodegas Finca Allende, Allende, Rioja ($17.99)
This wine is ruby in color and has good long legs. The nose is deep and complex, with tar, black cherry, and smoke, together with some hints of cedar and strawberry. It's light to medium bodied and quite dry. Well structured, its tannins are still quite firm and envelop smoke and tar flavors with some jammy plum. The finish is dry and tannic with spice, chalk, and dried fruit. This wine could stand a little more bottle age. Was very good with the lamb. Another star of this tasting.

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