I've Looked at Wine from Both Sides Now...

April can be a foolish month; so I thought why not take a whimsical approach to this month’s feature and select the wines for it based solely on their labels. After a few visits to my local wine stores, I had little success. I simply could not find enough wines with eye-catching labels that I had not tasted previously or that I did not have some prior knowledge of. That’s when I decided to enlist the services of a good friend who is extraordinarily knowledgeable about art but not very interested in wine. Her name is Ann Landi, and among her many credits is being a contributing editor to ARTnews and the author of the forthcoming Encyclopedia of Art for Students to be published by Schirmer Books.

One evening, we met at a wine store on New York’s Upper West Side that has quite an extensive selection as well as an attractive display of bottles. I asked Ann to select eight or nine wines based solely on their labels, with one restriction: that they be priced under $20. My only job was to keep several solicitous members of the knowledgeable sales staff from offering any advice, since I wanted there to be no other influence on her choices but art.

Ann went slowly through the aisles, notebook in hand, stopping now and then to examine a label more closely and make a note or two. After about an hour, she was done. She had chosen nine wines, four whites and five reds, which she had never tasted or had even heard of. Upon leaving, she agreed to share her notes with me, which I have set alongside our tasting notes below.

The Art Critic	The Label	The Wine Critic
This was the most unusual of the bunch: a label shaped like a seated woman bent over a menu or wine list. The seashell beneath her recalls the Renaissance symbol for Venus, so perhaps she’s an Asian counterpart for the goddess of love. The pastel colors and cutouts on the back heighten the overall ethereal charm of the graphics.	N.V. Bonny Doon, Pacifc Rim Riesling, American Riesling ($9.99)	Pale straw in color with hints of green, this wine has a big, forward, inviting nose of lemon, vanilla, and almond. Crisp on entry, it coats the tongue with lemon and orange citrus flavors. Medium bodied and dry, it has a certain unctuousness to it. The wine is well structured with good acidity and has a nice citrus finish that's consistent with the nose and taste. Even if you've been put off by Rieslings in the past, give this dry one a try. It's the perfect wine for Asian fare. A star of this tasting.

Against a cream-colored background is an arresting abstract design in lavender, pale blue, red, and black. Half the logo seems inspired by Asian art; the other recalls Bauhaus designs—a nifty meeting of East and West.	1999 Tohu, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($13.99)	Pale straw with hints of green, this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has an odd, sweet musty nose that's not typical of this varietal. Light to medium bodied, with good acidity, it delivers honeydew melon flavors that linger. It finishes well with bold peach flavors. This is an interesting wine that would make a nice aperitif or a fine accompaniment for poached salmon with a creamy sauce. Imported by Ducat Cellars, Medley, FL.

Again, simple means are used to optimum effect: A dark red tree is set against a black background, and the gold type adds an elegant note. The simple “wooded” border lends a kind of homey appeal.	1999 Beckmen Vineyards, Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County ($14.99)	This wine is pale straw in color. The nose begins with oak and lemon zest, followed by vanilla notes. On the tongue, it's big and forward, delivering distinctive butter rum flavors, with almost no hint of oak, that linger. Well structured with layers of complexity and good acidity for food, it has a nice finish with bitter almond notes. "A lovely wine," remarked one taster. It would be great with a roast chicken. Definitely, a star of this tasting.

This label makes a grand impression with minimal means: Inside an oval, placed high up on the bottle, is a black-and-white outline of a fish, which looks like it was made through an etching or woodcut technique. The shape of the label echoes the shape of the fish, and the overall effect is simple and elegant.	1999 Hamiltons Bluff, Canowindra Grossi, Unwooded Chardonnay, Cowra ($19.99)	This Australian Chardonnay is pale straw in color. It has a very pretty, clean nose that one taster likened to a "spring day" and that's reminiscent of honey and minerals. On the tongue, it's full bodied and dry, with plenty of mineral and quince flavors that linger. The finish is long and consistent with the initial flavors. It's well structured with good acidity. A welcome change from woody Chardonnays. This would be a great accompaniment for a steamed lobster with loads of drawn butter. Imported by Ravensvale Group, Manhasset NY. Another star of this tasting.

This one makes a simple but bold statement, using only gold lettering and a diamond-shaped crest against a black background. It has an imposing and heraldic feeling, and looks like it belongs on a much more expensive bottle.	1999 Francis Coppola, Black Label Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon, "Diamond Series," California ($16.99)	Opaque and deep ruby in color, this Cabernet-based blend has big beautiful legs. The nose is bold with aromas of brown sugar and cassis. On the palate, it delivers Bing cherry and meaty flavors. It’s well structured, with fruit and soft tannins in near perfect balance. There's also a sweet underpinning to this wine and a nice mouth feel that add to its attractiveness. The finish is beefy and long. Definitely a steakhouse red. Enjoy with a broiled filet or sirloin.

The label is intriguing because it seems to tell a story: a knotted ladder hangs from the upper story of a prison, while the back end of a car is seen exiting to the left. The graphics recall the witty cartoons of Edward Gorey, and the color contrasts—cobalt blue, sienna, and bright yellow—recall the hues of the Tuscan countryside.	1999 Ca' del Solo, Big House Red, California Red Wine ($9.99)	Ruby with good legs, this blend of a multitude of Mediterranean grapes, like Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, has an earthy nose reminiscent of damp decaying leaves. Light to medium bodied, it offers bright flavors of sweet cherry with crushed black pepper notes. It’s dry, with good tannins and good acidity. On the finish, there are notes of wild cherries. “It’s more appealing than the nose would lead you to believe,” said one tough taster. The perfect pasta or pizza wine.

Clearly familiar with the art of the Pacific Northwest, the designer has fashioned a clever circular logo featuring three ravens clutching one another’s legs. It’s a bold statement, made even more emphatic by using black and gold against a creamy background.	1999 Ravenswood, Vintners Blend, Zinfandel, California ($10.99)	Deep ruby with nice legs, this Zinfandel has a nose of wild mushrooms and fresh black pepper. It’s medium bodied with dry meaty flavors and underpinnings of black fruit like plums or black cherries. There’s adequate acidity for food and a good finish with some anise notes. This is a low-key California Zin and would go well with grilled pork or stews.

The bullfighter and charging bull, realized in bright primary colors, seem to promise that the contents will be robust and flavorful. A narrow band of copper around the perimeter of the label adds a classy touch.	1998 Rancho Zabaco, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($14.99)	Opaque and dark ruby in color, this wine has good legs and an herbaceous nose with violet notes. Light bodied, it delivers flavors of violets and bitter chocolate that seem to dissipate rather quickly. It’s a little short on the finish, where there’s some hints of cherry. This wine would be better with food than by itself. Enjoy with burgers, or serve as a good barbecue wine.

The graphics echo the name of the wine: The variegated cartoon “blockhead” with a long conical nose looks like a kid’s toy, but casts an ominous shadow. This one reminded me a little of certain Surrealists, such as Giorgio de Chirico.	1999 Blockheadia Ringnosii, Zinfandel, California ($19.99)	Deep ruby in color, this wine has lovely legs. The nose is earthy with jammy fruit notes. On the palate, there’s only one way to describe this wine: "delicious, high quality, chocolate-covered cherries." On the palate, there’s a quintessential elegance, and the flavors just seem to linger. The wine has an excellent structure and a great wild cherry finish, where the chocolate fades into the background. An outstanding Zinfandel, and definitely a star of this tasting. Enjoy with a great steak and let the wine share the spotlight.

Now that you've seen the influence of labels, why not take this month's Survey on wine labels?

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