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The Ol’ Comeback Kid:
  The Languedoc-Roussillon

Okay, Okay.  I know that the designation “kid” may not be totally appropriate to use when describing what might well be France’s oldest wine region. In fact, the Languedoc-Roussillon is probably the first area in France where the Romans introduced viticulture. But given the extraordinary turnaround in the quality of its wines, I found the epithet quite apt. There seems to be a youthful exuberance in this region on the part of winemakers that is evidenced by their sacrificing quantity for quality, or by experimenting with new varietals, or by forfeiting appellation status to achieve the perfect blend. Indeed, the offspring from this rebirth that began in the 1970s is still relatively young, especially when compared to its relatives in Bordeaux and Burgundy.

The Languedoc-Roussillon actually comprises two regions: the Languedoc, which stretches westward from the bottom of the Rhone down to the Pyrenees hugging the Mediterranean coast, and Roussillon, which curves southward from north of Perpignan to the Spanish border. Combined, this region covers over 400,000 acres of vines and produces close to 18 million hectoliters of wine a year. So vast and so fertile is this region that, not so long ago, it was frequently referred to, quite disparagingly, as France’s great “wine lake.”

The over production in this region started in the mid-19^th century when the arrival of railroads made transporting wines affordable and opened the markets in the north. The mass production lead to weak wines that were often strengthened by adding wine from Algeria and elsewhere in North Africa. When Algeria won independence in 1962, new sources for strengthening wines were found in southern Italy. In fact, when wine producers realized that it was cheaper to import from Italy than to blend,  local growers began to riot. Eventually, in the early 1970s, the government stepped in and began to encourage the  production of  higher quality wines. Through financial assistance, educational and research endeavors, the formation of cooperatives, and the creation of  the vin de pays classification, which is a step above the everyday vin ordinaire, the government was able to reclaim the area.  Progress has continued, and these days, the innovation among wine producers has, like the miracle at Cana, turned much of this lake’s “water” into delicious wine.

The Languedoc-Roussillon is primarily red-wine country, and the classic varietals of this region are: Carignan, Cinsault, and Grenache. Carignan provides body and weight; Grenache contributes alcohol and color, and Cinsault adds fruit and acidity. Whereas older regulations typically limited production to these varietals, newer standards and, perhaps most important, the flexibility of the vin de pays classification have allowed producers to cultivate and experiment with other varieties, such as Mourvedre and Syrah as well as with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. More liberal guidelines have enabled producers to exploit their individual vineyards’ strengths and to adjust their blends either to reflect their own tastes or to compensate for the climactic conditions of the harvest.

For white wines, today’s winemakers, along similar lines, are eschewing the traditional appellation white varieties such as Bourboulenc, Clairette, Maccabeo, Ugni Blanc, and Picpoul for Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Viognier. Native Muscats, however, are still prized. And the region is also known for its vins doux naturels, made from the Muscats of Frontignan and Lunel, some truly delightful dessert wines.

Listing all the appellation controlle regions of the Languedoc-Roussillon with their ever changing sub-classifications and labeling laws seems as difficult as diagramming complex sentences back in grammar school. Not surprisingly, the most famous are also the ones producing the best wines.

In the Languedoc, Corbieres, Minervois, the Coteaux de Languedoc with its many subdivisions such as St. Chinan and Faugeres, and Costieres de Nimes are the major appellations. Space does not allow me to describe each of these regions here. However, to get a detailed description of each of the appellations with comments on the climate, soil, grape varieties, and other relevant information, visit the outstanding website Languedoc AOC Wines and select “Languedoc AOC” on the menu bar at the top of the page.

The Muscats of Frontignan, Lunel, and Mireval are nectar-like examples of vins doux naturels, wines that are stopped early in their fermentation by the addition of spirits. These are sweet wines that are relatively high in alcohol and can be the perfect way to end a meal.

In the Roussillon, the major appellations are Cotes du Roussillon, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, Maury, and Banyuls. Banyuls’ vins doux are among the most prized of their type, are often recommended to pair with chocolate desserts, and, not surprisingly, can be quite expensive. Maury produces similar wines, but they do not have the reputation of  those from Banyuls. Perhaps the wines of most interest from the Cotes du Roussillon-Villages are the new-style whites made with tasty varietals like Roussanne and Marsanne and other local varietals.

When shopping for these wines, as I hope you will, the vintages to look for are 1998 and 1995. The 1999 vintage suffered some hail damage, but may still be good. Most Languedoc-Roussillon reds are generally ready to drink 12 to15 months after the vintage; whites are ready in about half that time. Only the best of these wines can age well and should be at their prime in approximately three years.

For this tasting, I contacted a friend of mine who’s also a representative of a company that I have found to be one of the best importers of Languedoc-Roussillon wines, Hand Picked Selections. The owner, Dan Kravitz, has a reputation for being one of  the top importers of wines that retail for under $10.00. But if you didn’t know their cost,  I’m reasonably sure that you would believe Kravitz’s wines to be considerably more expensive. I have found that the quality-to-price ratio of his wines has been consistently high and that they are perfect for everyday drinking. Flavor, good structure, and a sense of place are the characteristics that all his selections seem to have in common. For more about Hand Picked Selections and Dan Kravitz, visit his website: Hand Picked Selections.

I should make it clear that Hand Picked Selections supplied, at my request, all of the wines for this tasting at no charge and with no conditions. I felt comfortable asking my friend from Hand Picked to attend our tasting and to share his thoughts with us about these wines and the region, because we were not comparing them against bottles from other companies. Rather, we were simply taking a survey of the wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon. In fact, several of the wines we’ve reviewed were not from the Languedoc-Roussillon but from neighboring regions like Provence and Monbazillac in the Southwest of France.

As is our custom, we tasted each of the wines individually without food and took notes. We then chose our favorites to sample with our meal, which was a French-style chicken stew served over oil-tossed noodles.

1999 La Noble, Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de pays de l’ Aude ($6.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has an attractive crème brulée nose with hints of minerals like chalk and lime. On the palate, it’s crisp with good acidity and delivers plenty of lasting mineral flavors complemented by citrus. This is a well structured wine with a good finish. It was quite good with our meal as well. Definitely a star of this tasting and an outstanding value.

1999 Chateau de Bastet, “Cuvée Saint Jean” Cotes du Rhone ($14.99)

Pale straw in color, this white Rhone is an equal blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Clairette. Aromas of white peach and anise, together with a little citrus, waft from the glass. Big and forward on the palate, it delivers predominantly fennel flavors; one taster, however, found the flavors to be more floral, likening it to nasturtiums. This is a well-balanced wine, with plenty of good acidity to stand up to a variety of dishes.

1998 Cuvée de Peña, Vin de Pays des Pyrénées Orientales ($6.99)

Translucent ruby in color, this blend of  Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre has good legs and a nose reminiscent of burnt sugar and cranberry. Medium bodied and dry, it delivers straightforward mineral flavors, along with some spice and cocoa. Not at all complex, this is nonetheless a scrumptious wine. It makes you long for a plate of spaghetti and meatballs or simple grilled meats. This wine was outstanding with our meal, nicely complementing the chicken stew. Another very good value and definitely a star of this tasting.

1998 Chateau de Lancyre, “Hautes Terres,” Coteaux du Languedoc ($13.99)

Ruby in color with good legs, this wine has a warm earthy, barnyard nose with hints of mushroom. One taster definitely thought that the nose had a vegetal or broccoli character. Medium to full bodied, this wine is quite dry and well structured, with soft tannins enveloping loads of rich plum flavors. It has a nice finish as well. We found this wine to be quite good with the meal.

1998 Domaine de la Madeleine, Vin de Pays de L’Herault ($10.00)

Ruby in color, this wine made from Carignan has good legs and a thick, one-note, high toned cherry nose reminiscent of kirsch. On the palate, it comes across as a pretty wine, light bodied and dry, with mild tannins and wild-cherry flavors together with some chalk notes. Simple and forward, this is a gullpable red.

1998 Chateau Prat de Cest, Corbieres ($7.99)

This blend of  Carignan (40%), Grenache (30%), Syrah (20%), and Mourvedre (10%) is garnet in color with nice long legs. The nose is subtle and intoxicating with white pepper and raspberries. Forward on the palate, with almost no tannin, it delivers plenty of black-fruit flavor, highlighted by notes of earth, mushroom, and bay leaf. These flavors linger on the palate, and the finish is also quite good. It was extraordinary with our meal. Definitely, another star of this tasting.

1998 Commanderie de la Bargemone, Couteaux d’Aix en Provence ($11.99)

This red from Provence is made predominantly from Grenache, with some Syrah and Cinsault. It’s ruby in color, with long legs and a big strawberry nose. On the palate, it delivers forward, concentrated flavors of tart strawberries with just a hint of sweetness, and the flavors linger. This wine has a nice mouthfeel as well as a good finish. It has plenty of flavor for serving with food.

1998 Domaine Decourt, “Axelius Vinum,” Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Narbonne ($15.00)

Most likely a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache, this wine is ruby in color with good legs. It has a sophisticated cigar-box nose with hints of plum. It’s luscious on the palate, with flavors of boysenberry, blueberry, and roasted chestnuts. It’s well structured and dry all the way through, with a nice, mild spice finish. Some thought this wine complemented the food quite well, like a spice; others found it a little too big for the dish.

1998 Domaine Puydeval “Saint Genis,” Vin de Pays de la Cite de Carcassone ($18.00)

This blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Merlot (30%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) has a beautiful ruby color and long legs. The nose is forward, with aromas of green bell pepper and cigar-box cedar. On the palate, it’s big and packed with flavors of dried meat, like prosciutto, and it has a good finish. This wine calls for, what one taster described as, “serious cheese.”  It was good with our chicken but would probably be better paired with a cassoulet.

N.V. Image du Sud, Vin de table Francais ($24.99)

This “non-vintage” wine, a joint effort of two of the leading producers of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, André Brunel (des Cailloux) and Laurence Féraud (Domaine de Pegau) is a blend primarily of  Syrah and Grenache. (Despite being “non-vintage,” the cork revealed it to be a ‘98.) Garnet in color with good legs, it has a complex nose of strawberry and cardamom that evolves and changes over time. This is a delicious, beautifully structured wine, with soft tannins enveloping lush fruit flavors of plum, complemented by Provencal herbs. The flavors linger on the palate, and the wine has a great finish. This wine was extraordinary with the food, which brought out its layers of flavor. A star of this tasting, but a little beyond our price limit of $20. Well, maybe for a special occasion.

1998 Chateau Russol Gardey, Minervois, “Grande Reserve” ($20.00)

Opaque ruby in color with good legs, this wine has an attractive smoky nose with wood and blueberry notes. On the palate, it’s big and assertive, with burnt sugar flavors coating the tongue. It’s fat and rich and has loads of fruit and wood in near perfect balance. It also has a long, lush finish. This wine was one of the best with our meal, and its flavors seemed to coat the chicken. Yet another star of this tasting.

1998 Chateau de Valflaunes, Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, “Esperance” ($25.00)

Garnet in color, with long luscious legs, this wine has a fat creamy nose of concentrated fruit. It’s silky on the tongue with complex flavors reminiscent of fresh figs and cassis. The wine is beautifully structured, complex, and deep, with good acidity and a long lasting finish of chocolate with some hints of vanilla. It was good with the food.

1998 Chateau de Lancyre, Pic Saint Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc, “Grande Cuvee” ($25.00)

Deep ruby in color with long, long legs, this wine has a big forward nose of oak and spice with black cherry notes. On the palate, it’s satiny smooth. Dry and full bodied, it delivers deep coffee-bean flavors, with hints of currants, and has a good toasty finish. “A sexy wine,” remarked one taster. This wine is not yet at its peak and needs another two to three years in the bottle. Excellent with the food. A star of the tasting; but again beyond our price point. Given the excellent quality of this wine, however, it is still a bargain.

1997 Chateau Vrai, Monbazillac ($7.50)

Pale gold in color, with a seductive nose of honey, apricots, and dried figs, this wine from  the south west of France is rich, yet not heavy, on the palate. It delivers almond and orange peel flavors, with some sweet botrytis notes, that remain on the palate. It has a good finish as well. Given the price, this is an excellent value for a dessert wine. In fact, one taster, a dessert-wine lover, thought it would go with a wider range of desserts than a more expensive Sauternes.

This feature is the first in a series of tastings that will highlight the portfolio of an individual wine importer. I have found that knowing the names of importers can help you find some truly exceptional wines. Unfortunately, these names are often hidden on the back label.

TableWine is a personal website and does not sell any wine. However, many of the wines we review are purchased from our local wine merchant, Wine & Spirit World. Their web site may help you locate a good number of our selections. Also, if your local wine store does not carry a wine that you've read about here, don't hesitate to ask them to order a bottle or two for you. For imported wines, you may need to supply them with the name of the importer or distributor.

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