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The Once Unthinkable: White Wine & Cheese

White, among the fashion conscious, has never been considered acceptable for daytime wear before Memorial Day. White, among oenophiles, has never been acceptable as an accompaniment for cheese. Indeed, I myself have, until now, been among those who have turned up their noses at the mere thought of serving the two together. After all, growing up in an Italian home, my formaggio was always accompanied by a Chianti, a Dolcetto, or on special occasions by a fine Barolo. In fact, I remember how, during the summer, we used to end many of our meals with a wedge of provolone, some crusty bread, and a tall glass filled with a few slices of a ripe peach under several ounces of a jug red.

As an adult, I, along with the majority of wine drinkers, have always served a full-bodied red like a Zinfandel or a Cabernet with my cheese course. Probably the only times I encountered white wine with cheese were at college wine-and-cheese parties and at trade tastings, where the old wine merchant's maxim, "Buy with apples; sell with cheese," was always in full force. It wasn’t until I read the book I’m reviewing this month, The New American Cheese, by Laura Werlin, that I even considered tasting a cheese with white wine, no less serving an entire cheese board with it. But the book made such a convincing argument for pairing white wines with cheese that I thought why not. The author suggests two styles of paring: complementary, where the wine and the cheese share similar characteristics, such as goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, both high in acid; or contrasting, such as a sweet dessert wine and a sharp blue cheese. The ideal in both styles is balance, where neither the cheese nor the wine overwhelms the other.

With spring already here and summer just around the corner, many of our meals will consist of lighter fare for which white wine is more often than not the appropriate choice. So I decided let's sample a variety of whites and see how they stand up to a typical selection of cheeses. I'm happy to report that my eyes were opened and my prejudice against the match dispelled. This summer my cheeses will definitely be accompanied by one or two bottles of white. But I'm also sure that the wedge of Provolone with a tumbler of jug red and sliced peaches will have a place on my summer table as well.

For this tasting we first tasted the wines individually and then with a selection of cheeses that consisted of a brie and a chevre from France, a Spanish manchego, an aged gouda from Holland, a Swiss gruyere, an Italian ricotta salata, and a Vermont cheddar. While tasting the wines with the cheese, we found the guidelines for pairing cheese in Laura Werlin’s The New American Cheese very helpful. She recommends:

Light wines like Chenin Blanc with light cheeses, such as goat’s or sheep’s milk
High-acid whites with high acid cheeses, such as chevre and Sauvignon Blanc
Low acid wines with cheeses low in acid, such as a gouda with a Chardonnay
Strong wines with strong cheeses, such as aged cheddar and red Rhones
Strong salty cheeses with dessert wines, such as blue cheese and Sauternes or Port

1997 Feudi di San Gregorio, Albente, White Table Wine ($9.99)

Gold in color, this wine has a big lemon citrus nose with hints of vanilla and pineapple. On the palate, it’s medium bodied, crisp, and dry. It delivers citrus flavors with a subtle sweetness. This wine is simple and straightforward with a nice citrus finish. It was especially good with the ricotta salata, cutting the cheese’s saltiness.

1998 Tenuta Villanova, Tocai Friulano, Isonzo del Friuli ($11.99)

This wine has a pale straw color. The nose is huge with honeysuckle and some fig-like sweetness. On the palate, it’s crisp with simple-syrup sweetness accompanied by lemon citrus flavors. This is a relatively simple wine with a good finish. It was outstanding with the manchego.

1998 Markham Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($11.99)

Pale, pale straw in color, this is a textbook Sauvignon Blanc with an herbaceous grassy nose. On the palate, it’s full flavored and almost unctuous with crisp acidity and mineral and citrus flavors. This wine has a full palate, and its flavors linger with a crisp finish. Somewhat complex, this wine was wonderful with the goat cheese. Definitely one of the stars of this tasting.

1998 Fournier, “Les Belles Vignes” Sancerre ($14.99)

This wine is the color of pale straw and has a deep, sweet herbaceous nose. Medium to light bodied, its tart citrus flavors are characterized by an orange-lemon zestiness. These flavors linger lightly on the palate and are followed by a mineral finish. This wine was extraordinary with the goat cheese. Another star of this tasting.

1998 J. Lohr, Chardonnay, Monterey ($12.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has a big butterscotch and vanilla nose. It’s dry and full flavored with butterscotch flavors tempered by subtle cedar notes. It has good acidity, lasting flavors, and a long cedary finish. This wine was outstanding with the gouda and complemented the brie by contrasts. It was also good with the manchego and the gouda.

1997 Frederic Lornet, Chardonnay, Arbois ($15.99)

Light gold in color, this wine has a big, apple nose with hints of apricot and butter. It’s medium bodied and dry on the palate, which contrasts with the sweetness of its nose. It delivers tart citrus flavors followed by toast, but is a little short on the finish. This wine was surprisingly good with the sharp cheddar.

1998 Sauvion, Vouvray ($7.99)

Light straw, practically clear in color, this wine has a clean sweet nose reminiscent of rock candy with apricot notes. It’s semi-sweet and full bodied with plenty of flavors similar to dried figs and dried apricots. It has a sweet finish with lingering honey-like flavors. I’d match this wine with a brie.

1997 J.B. Adam, Gewurztraminer D’Alsace, Reserve ($14.99)

Light gold in color, this wine has a big, almost huge, muscat nose with hints of honey. It’s full bodied with good acidity and candied-violet flavors accompanied by some spiciness. It’s big and smooth on the palate, and its sweetness is tempered by mineral and spice flavors. It also has a long spicy finish. This wine was best with the gouda and great with the cheddar.

Some final notes:

To enjoy cheese at its best, be sure to serve it at room temperature.
Don’t over chill your white wines. If they’re too cold, you’ll miss their flavors and complexity. Light sweet wines are best at 41-50° F; light dry wines should be served at 46 -54° F.

In case you missed it, here's a link to my review of The New American Cheese

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