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California Values

Well with all the volatility in the stock market these days, many of us are probably forgoing our plans to purchase that case of ’97 Cinq Cepages or ’82 Lafite. Heck, we’re probably even reconsidering the few bottles of our favorite house wines that we were going to consume this week. So if we have to tighten our belts along with our palates, I thought we might look at some more affordable wines this month from outstanding producers.

On my recent trip to California, I had the opportunity to sample some serious yet relatively inexpensive wines from Stag’s Leap’s Hawk Crest, Saintsbury, Bonny Doon, and Trefethen’s Eshcol Ranch. All of these wineries have earned well deserved reputations for producing outstanding wines, some of which fetch prices far beyond our target of $20. Stag’s Leap 1996 SLV Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, goes for $100 a bottle. But these houses also produce some great wines perfectly priced for everyday drinking, and that’s what we’re going to look at in this month’s feature.

Some wine snobs, if any are among us, may have to make trade-offs for affordability. Don’t expect complexity; most of these wines are straightforward on the nose and the palate. Don’t expect too much ageing potential; these wines are ready to drink upon release. While a year or so might improve some of them by allowing tannins to soften, it will not extract subtle nuances of flavor or develop glorious bouquets.

What you can expect, however, is high quality and consistency. These are dependable, well-made wines. The reds have good structure with tannins and fruit in balance and plenty of extract. The whites are flavorful with adequate acidity to stand up to most foods.

If you serve these wines to guests, make no apologies. While some of these labels may not have the cachet of their neighbors, they can still make quite an impression, especially when served with the right foods. Match the reds with grilled beef or roast lamb or pasta with light tomato sauces; serve the whites with simply prepared and lightly seasoned fish or poultry. In other words, don’t give theses wines too much competition. Let them shine on their own. The two Vins Gris are great for picnics or even as aperitifs. All will complement your menu and please your palate.

If any of these wines don’t stand up to your expectations (but I’m certain they will) try them with cheeses like brie, chevre, cheddar, or blue. You’ll be amazed at how much a good cheese can do for a simple wine.

1997 Hawk Crest, Chardonnay “Reserve,” California ($14.00)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a butterscotch nose with some vanilla notes. On the palate, it’s medium bodied with lemon citrus and subtle nut flavors. It has good acidity, which should allow it to stand up to food, and a good finish.

1998 Hawk Crest, Chardonnay, California ($10.00)

This wine is straw colored with shades of light green. Hints of green apples and butter characterize the nose. It’s nicely structured with good acidity and plenty of body with pineapple flavors and a buttery finish.

1997 Hawk Crest, Merlot, California ($12.00)

Ruby in color with long long legs, this wine has a big nose of black fruit and plums along with some green bell pepper. On the palate, it’s big and full bodied with plenty of extract and delivers tobacco and cedar flavors with raspberry notes on the finish. This is more full bodied than a typical California Merlot.

1996 Hawk Crest, Merlot “Reserve,” California ($16.00)

Deep ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a full nose of red fruit with some cinnamon and raisin notes. On the palate, it’s full bodied with jammy strawberry flavors. It has good structure with well balanced tannins and fruit. It has a good finish with some hints of spice.

1997 Hawk Crest, Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($12.00)

Deep purple in color with very long legs, this wine has a pleasant warm eucalyptus nose. On the palate, it delivers black fruit and tarry flavors with some tobacco notes. It’s well structured and has a nice finish with some hints of unripe peach. At $12 this wine is a good value.

1996 Hawk Crest, Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($16.00)

Deep purple to dark ruby in color, this wine has long legs. The nose is predominantly eucalyptus and toast with some hints of cedar. On the palate, the wine delivers bitter-almond flavors. Its fruit and mild tannins are well balanced. It also has a good finish.

1999 Saintsbury, Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, Carneros ($8.00)

Light garnet in color with a truly delightful floral and strawberry nose, this wine is surprisingly rich and full bodied with a great mid-palate. It delivers plenty of red berry (strawberry and raspberry) flavors enhanced by a light petillance (fizz). This wine would be perfect with a cold lobster salad.

1998 Saintsbury, Pinot Noir “Garnet,” Carneros, ($16.00)

This wine is light ruby in color with great legs. It has a seductive cherry and strawberry nose that leaps from the glass. On the palate, it’s full bodied with deep flavors of earth and raspberry with some tasty oak notes. It’s well structured and has a nice finish.

1997 Bonny Doon, Vin Gris de Cigare, “Pink Wine,” California ($8.50)

Coral pink in color with a delightful strawberry nose with some spice, this wine is surprisingly dry on the palate with flavors of un-ripened peaches or strawberries. It has a long dry finish.

1997 Bonny Doon, Ca’ del Solo, “Il Pesactore,” American White Wine ($13.50)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a sweet buttery nose with honeysuckle notes. On the palate, it’s rich and full bodied with crisp grapefruit flavors and a good minerally finish. This is a quaffable white.

1997 Bonny Doon, Pinot Meurnier, Sonoma Mountain ($15.00)

Rich ruby in color with long legs, this wine has a rich raspberry nose with some spice notes. It’s full bodied and dry with dry cheer and some cranberry flavors. It has a long dry cedary finish.

1998 Bonny Doon, Ca’ del Solo, Sangiovese, California ($12.00)

Purple in color with good legs, this wine has spicy notes with hints of iris. It’s full bodied with tobacco flavors wrapped in firm tannins. It has good acidity to make it suitable for hearty fare. It has a long finish with spice and smoky flavors.

1998 Bonny Doon, Ca’ del Solo, “Big House Red,” California ($10.00)

Deep ruby in color with very long legs, this wine has a floral nose with some peach and black pepper. It’s rich and jammy on the palate with plum and prune flavors and hints of black pepper. It has a pleasant tarry finish. This is the quintessential pizza or spaghetti red.

1998 Eshcol Ranch, Chardonnay, California ($11.50)

Light gold in color with a beautiful pear nose, this wine delivers rich pear flavors with vanilla notes and good acidity. It has a nice buttery finish. This is a real value.

1997 Eshcol Ranch, Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($12.00)

Deep purple in color with long legs, this wine has a big nose of black cherry. It delivers plenty of black fruit flavor with some earthy tobacco notes encased by mild tannins. It has a good finish with some cedar flavors.

TableWine is a personal website and does not sell any wine. However, many of the wines we review are purchased from our local wine merchant, Wine & Spirit World. Their web site may help you locate a good number of our selections.

If you have any suggestions for future tastings, drop us a line at the address below.