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Chenin Blanc: The Scarlet “C”

When I set out to buy the wines for this month’s feature on Chenin Blanc, I only had a couple of names in mind. So I thought let’s go to my local wine merchant and see what he has. As soon as I told him what I was looking for and asked for some suggestions, he paused for a moment and then said: “It will probably be one of your best tastings; but, just as likely, it will not elicit too much interest. People just aren’t into Chenins.”

Indeed, he was only able to come up with two American examples and then suggested throwing in a couple of French Vouvrays from the Loire Valley to illustrate how enticing these wines can be. The accuracy of my merchant’s assessment on the state of this varietal was borne out by the fact that it took my visiting at least four more stores before I was able to round up enough Chenins that met our site’s price and quality criteria. My merchant was right: people just don’t want to drink Chenin Blanc. “Too fruity,” said one salesman. “Customers want ‘dry’.” “Chenin what?” asked another less knowledgeable proprietor, adding: “We do have Mountain Chablis…in jugs.”

My third and fourth store visit yielded a couple more bottles that were hidden in one corner and grouped with those miscellaneous whites (Gewurztraminers, Pinot Gris, Semillon, etc.) that nobody knows what to do with. Still another merchant attributed the paucity of selection in his establishment to the season. “No,” he explained, “we don’t have much now. Chenins usually come in during the spring.” Rack after rack of Chardonnay (there had to be at least three dozen) and only two CBs.

Sure most of these stores stocked one or two Vouvrays that might appeal to those looking for something French and that don’t bear the burden of being labeled varietally with the scarlet “C.” But Chenin Blanc was scarce. In fact, a couple of the bottles I wound up buying didn’t even have the C word on the label.

If I had had more time and a better back (a number of stores kept their Chenin Blancs on their lowest shelves), I might have been able to come up with a few more bottles, but after retrieving nine, I stopped.

It’s a shame, because Chenin Blanc can yield a beautiful bottle of wine. When made from vines whose yields are carefully controlled, as among the better producers in France’s Loire valley (where it is also known as Pineau), the wine can be rich with dry honeyed and herbaceous flavors accompanied by a lemon citrus acidity that makes it perfect for the dinner table. It can also be used to produce semi-dry (demi-sec) wines as well as some of the most elegant sweet wines (e.g., Vouvrays labeled as Moelleux or Liquoreux, Coteaux du Layon, or Coteaux de l’Aubance), which can be cellared for years. The grape’s flavors and natural acidity also contribute to its being used for delicious sparkling wines (e.g., Saumur Mousseux, Cremant de Loire). For more information on Loire Chenin Blancs, see my past feature Sensible Wines of the Loire Valley.

Outside of France, Chenin Blanc can be found in great quantity. Unfortunately, as is often the case, quantity and quality are often at odds. In fact, when Chenin yield is not controlled, the grape’s high acidity can overwhelm its flavors.

In South Africa, Chenin Blanc is also know as Steen and used to produce a variety of wines. The most popular is Stein, a semi-sweet wine. In South and Central America, where it is also grown in great quantity, it is valued for its acidity and used to make rather crisp wines. It is also found in New Zealand and Australia, where it is typically used as a blending wine.

In the United States, Chenin is plentiful in California’s Central Valley, where yields-per-acre are generally three times greater than those in the Loire. Here it is used principally for mass-produced jug wines, for which it is often blended with another widely planted grape, French Colombard. Unfortunately, these jug wines have done little for Chenin’s reputation. Elsewhere in the state, however, it has attracted the attention of winemakers who are attempting to make more Loire-styled Chenin Blancs. Perhaps the best known district in California for Chenin Blanc is Clarksburg. Based on my recent tasting of these wines, it looks as if they are succeeding.

Chenin Blancs can be dry (sec), semi-sweet (demi-sec), or sweet (moelleux). Even when dry, however, they can have a subtle sweetness. The nose is often honeysuckle or floral and sometimes herbaceous or flinty. The flavors can be complex with hints of honey, apricots, dried figs, peaches and melon, or simple and straightforward with flint or mineral notes. These wines will typically have a citrus-like acidity that, in a well made example, should complement the grape’s flavors and make the wine a perfect accompaniment to a wide range of dishes from simple white fish or grilled poultry to spicy Asian fare. A good Chenin can also stand on its own as a perfect aperitif.

If you’ve never tasted a Chenin Blanc, I strongly urge you to taste any of those we have reviewed. You will probably think twice about opting for Chardonnay the next time your menu calls for a white wine. If you’ve had a bad experience with these wines years ago, give them a second chance. You’ll be amazed at how far they’ve come. But don’t let the word out; if Chenin Blancs become too popular, their prices might begin to reflect more accurately their quality and charm.

For this tasting, we arranged the wines in ascending order by price and tasted them first by themselves and then with an entrée of haddock stuffed with an herb and garlic paste and baked with aromatics and potatoes.

1998 Beringer, Chenin Blanc, California ($6.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has an inviting herbaceous and orange-citrus nose with a subtle nuttiness. Smooth on entry, the wine is off dry, with honey and apricot flavors. It was just a little short on the finish. It was a wonderful complement to the fish, serving almost like an additional seasoning. This is a delightful wine at a great price.

1998 Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($6.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a faint nose of melon rind, wet leaves, and some floral notes that fades a little too quickly. Smooth on entry, it’s totally dry with little acidity. On the palate, the flavors are lemony citrus and bitter almond. It finishes fairly well with pleasant citrus notes. It was quite good with the food.

1998 Hogue Cellars, Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($6.99)

Almost clear in color with faint hints of straw, this wine has a vanilla, floral nose with almond undertones. Semi-dry on the palate, it has a nice balance of citrus, ripe pineapple, and bitter almond along with a crisp acidity. It has good extract as well. The wine has a long finish and the flavors linger with some hints of honey. This wine was outstanding with the food. Definitely a star of this tasting.

1997 Chappellet, Chenin Blanc, Dry, Napa Valley ($8.09)

Pale gold in color, the wine has an herbaceous, grassy, and citrus nose that gives way to vanilla and almonds. Smooth on entry, it’s dry with plenty of extract and a good mid-palate. It coats the tongue with dry nutty flavors complemented by a lemony acidity. It also has a long, dry finish. It complemented the fish. This is an elegant wine and a great value.

1998 Pine Ridge, Chenin Blanc (87%) Viognier (13%), California ($9.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine delivers tart apples on the nose along with vanilla and nuts. Dry on the palate, its flavors are kiwi, dried apricot, and a lavender similar to that found in herbes de Provence. It’s nicely structured with good acidity. It has a long finish with lavender notes. Kept all its character even with our seasoned fish. This was another favorite in this tasting. (I find it interesting that Pine Ridge recently changed the shape of their bottle from a long green Alsatian/German style to a brown Chardonnay style and that the small amount of Viognier in the blend appears prominently on the label.)

1998 Weinstock Cellars, Contour, Clarksburg ($10.99)

Pale straw in color, this wine has a big nose of dried figs, peaches, and rock candy along with some mineral notes. It’s full bodied with burnt sugar flavors on the palate. Its flavors linger and some lemony acidity cuts through the sweet. There are also flavors of green pears. The wine has a good finish with citrus notes. It was very good with the food. By the way, this wine was marked Kosher for Passover.

1998 Nance Collection, Nu-ance, California White Wine ($12.99)

Pale gold in color, the wine has a faint honey nose with some herbaceousness. The nose is fresh and interestingly gives way to pears and even some Muscat. This wine is well structured with good concentration. The flavors are reminiscent of spicy flowers like pansies. There’s also good acidity. It has a nice finish as well. This wine is definitely French in style.

1996 Clos Baudoin, Aigle Blanc, Vouvray ($14.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has a big nose with floral, honey, and vanilla-bean aromas. It’s very smooth on entry, delivering flavors of grapefruit citrus, almonds, along with some hints of wood and pear. Beautifully structured and complex, this is a textbook Vouvray. It has a long citrus finish. This wine was extraordinary with the fish, boosting it with a counterpoint of flavors. Definitely a star of this tasting.

1989 Brisebarre, Vouvray, Demi-Sec ($14.99)

Pale gold in color, this wine has a big nose of figs, rock candy, and crème brulee. On the palate, it’s thick and viscous, showing good concentration. It’s semi sweet with flavors of dried figs and apricots complemented by a subtle acidity. It has a long finish with notes of dried figs. We included this wine in the tasting to illustrate how well-made Vouvrays from a good vintage can stand the test of time. This wine is worth seeking out.

TableWine is a personal website and does not sell any wine. However, many of the wines we review are purchased from our local wine merchant, Wine & Spirit World. Their web site may help you locate a good number of our selections.

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